HAVANA // 36 HOURS

Havana, ooh na-na was the theme song to my two-day trip to Havana! The Cuban capital is beautiful and full of life - two days is not enough time to explore the city. Arriving in Cuba felt like going back in time. Or maybe Havana is that magical place that time has only rediscovered? The city is a cultural epicenter comprised of music, dance, art, and pure happiness.

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Where we stayed:

Hotel Revolution: Choosing a hotel in Havana required some considerable research. We ended up staying at Hotel Revolution as it has great reviews online and is centrally located in Old Havana. The hotel staff was inviting, hospitable and most importantly multilingual (a must with our tragic excuse for Spanish). The entire hotel staff really took amazing care of us, customizing our travel arrangements and referring several amazing restaurants in the city.  Best of all, our nightly rate included a typical Caribbean breakfast with juices, eggs, and toast. I definitely suggest booking an Airbnb because that way you will have a better idea of what’s included aka “Does it have AC?”

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What we saw (did):

Explore the city: One of the best ways to see and experience the city is to simply wander the maze of streets that comprise Havana. There is so much to see and experience! The streets are lively with street vendors and performers. Start by strolling down Calle Obispo, taking in the bright colored buildings, and order a mojito from any of the bars lining practically every corner. Strolling down the streets of the Centro Havana neighborhood helped me gain a better sense of Cuban culture and daily Cuban life – this is a must!

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Walk along the Malecon: The Malecon is a large stone wall that separates the Caribbean Sea from Havana. We strolled along the Malecon enjoying the views. At night, the Malecon is a popular spot for locals and tourists to hang out.

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 Palacio del Segundo Cabo: We stumbled across this history museum which explains Havana’s colonial past (mostly in English, which was a huge plus)!

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Havana Rum Club Museum: Believe it or not but before this trip I had never tasted Havana Club rum before and wow was it delicious (especially in all of the cocktails we drank)! Per recommendation we headed over to the Rum Museum and took a tour in English to learn and taste Cuba’s most famous rum. 

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Car Tour/ Ride: New ride, who this? You can book a tour around Havana in an old 1950s American car with your hotel or Airbnb. Alternatively, you can approach one of the many drivers lined up along the streets near the capitol and negotiate your own price. Another great cost friendly option is catching a ride in a taxi as you can still get the same experience and photo ops. I have to say, the 1950s cars are as amazing to ride in as you’d expect them to be… I felt like I was in the movie Grease cruising around in a hot pink bel air with the wind in my hair listening to reggaeton music.

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What we ate: 

La Guarida: La Guarida is by far the best restaurant in Havana and is a must! I recommend making a reservation two weeks in advance (you will also be required to confirm your reservation 24 hours before you arrive). The restaurant is located on the top floor of an old crumbling mansion that was once a movie set for a famous Oscar nominated movie, “Fresa y Chocolate.” On the highest floor, you’ll find a rooftop bar that has incredible panoramic views of Havana (a great place to watch the sunset). The food was by far the best meal I had in Cuba. I ordered the nightly special of lobster tails and mushroom risotto while Daniel (my husband) chose the more traditional ropa vieja. The food really gives you a taste of Cuban classics with a modern upscale twist.  

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Centro de cultura andaluza: We spotted a rooftop restaurant from the street located on top of a cultural center, so we headed to check out their menu. You all know how much I love a rooftop! Since we had dinner reservations later at La Guarida we chose to snack on some ceviche and chicken with rice. 

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El Bambu: During our first night in Havana, we stumbled across this paladar. It’s a cross between a café and a bar because of its small size and quaint atmosphere. The restaurant had an extensive cocktail list and the menu included Cuban classics with a Greek twist. Daniel and I shared a charcuterie plate and some of the best crispy chicken I’ve ever tasted. 

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* Restaurants in Cuba are either privately-owned or run by the government. Government-run restaurants are renowned for having poor quality of food. Paladars (privately owned) have MUCH better food and it’s also more reasonably priced.  Additionally, frequenting paladars supports new startups in Cuba. A win-win in my book! All of the restaurants recommended above are paladar restaurants.

Where we drank:

La Floridita: Home of the daiquiri and a frequent home to Hemingway. Be sure to check out this tourist spot while in Havana. La Floridita is filled with a mix of tourists and locals enjoying delightful and citrusy daiquiris while listening to live Cuban music.

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Hotel Saratoga: This cocktail list was the most extensive we came across in Havana, including Cuban classics like mojitos, daiquiris, and caipiriñas.  We relaxed and listened to the pianist while indulging in some WiFi. We purchased an internet card from the business center and it was the fastest signal in the city. If all of this wasn’t enough to entice you, it’s also where Beyoncé stayed when she visited Havana. If it’s good enough for Queen B then it’s good enough for me!

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LT (layover tips):

  • Make sure to only drink bottled water to avoid any potential stomach issues.
  • Since the internet is sparse it’s a good idea to print out all travel documents and reservations before you go – it’s better to be safe than sorry!
  • Cuba has a two-currency system. There is once currency for the locals and one for tourists (CUC). There are not a lot of cash points in the city so I suggest exchanging at the airport. While I normally won’t carry cash, and rely on my credit card, it is the opposite in Cuba. Make sure to get plenty of cash to be covered for your trip.
  • I suggest packing toilet paper, snacks, hand sanitizer, bandaids, Tums, and Tylenol. These products are scarce in Cuba and when available they are ridiculously expensive. While you may not need these items, they will be a lifesaver if something goes wrong. I developed a blister and I was so thankful I brought bandaids!
  • Traveling with a United States passport was a little more difficult than anticipated. I roll my eyes at people that tell me to get to the airport 2 hours before, but this time you actually need to do it.
  • With a United States passport, you will be asked which of the 12 licenses you are traveling under because tourism is technically not permitted. I suggest you choose “support for the Cuban people” license. I travelled using this license and didn’t run into any issues.
  • On the flight, you’ll fill out a Sanitary Statement and an Embarkation and Debarkation form. On these forms, you want to indicate that your reason for travel is tourism.
  • There is no limit on the number of Cuban cigars you can bring back into the US.
  • Make sure to carry some 1 CUC bills for tips. The Cuban people only make the equivalent of $20 a month therefore many Cubans have multiple jobs for additional income. For example, the pianist at Hotel Saratoga is a chemist by day and a pianist by night. As an American I’m accustomed to tipping but this was an extra nicety. 
  • Havana tends to run on island time, so patience is required at restaurants and attractions.
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