With rich complex cultural heritage, Hong Kong is a place of great contrasts and is full of surprises. The city is vibrant, bustling and cosmopolitan. On top of that, Hong Kong has deeply rooted Chinese traditions that are fused with influences from the former 150-year British rule. Because of the multiple cultures the city is well-known as the place where “East meets West.” Although Hong Kong is usually considered to be much more expensive than other Asian destinations, the city remains a mecca for shopaholics, foodies, culture seekers, and outdoor adventurers.
What we ate:
Tim Ho Wan: For several years this restaurant was known as the cheapest Michelin Star restaurant in the world. Now surpassed in the category by Liao Fan Hawker in Singapore (which we visited), it still offers delicious food for the best prices in the city. When you arrive, grab an English order slip from the front counter and pencil in your order while you wait in line. Tim Ho has several locations across the city and is probably one of the best places to try dim sum.
Yum Cha: In Cantonese, “yum cha” literally means “drink tea” but it can also refer to the event of eating dim sum. This restaurant has a playful modern twist on the traditional yum cha with multiple locations across the city. Yum Cha are known for their adorable dumplings that are almost too cute to eat but they also offer a variety of traditional Cantonese dishes.
Tsim Chai Kee Noodle: You know a restaurant is probably going to be good when they’ve been listed in the Michelin guide for multiple years. This small shop delivers steaming hot bowls of noodles with incredible speed. The menu is small with only a few variations of the soup; shrimp wonton, beef or fish ball. The hand pulled noodles and broth are the real stars of this dish in my opinion.
Elephant Grounds: Elephant grounds is a micro roaster with a brunch of stores across Hong Kong. They have everything from ice cream sandwiches, eggs on toast, and of course coffee.
Sohofama: Sohofama sits on the ground floor of PMQ (see below). It’s a Chinese fusion restaurant but between modern and traditional cuisines. The food is served stylishly and simply with fresh produce and locally sourced organic ingredients. We sat outside on the more casual patio enjoying the atmosphere. Be sure to try a cocktail they had many unique concoctions!
Where we stayed:
The Fleming Hotel: Located in the Wan Chai district, this independent boutique hotel is one of my favorite hotels I’ve stayed in. All 66 rooms are ship cabin-inspired, with wooden panels on the walls, round edged accessories and retro details. The interior is stunning and the layout in the smaller rooms are extremely well throughout and functional.
What we did:
Victoria peak: Victoria peak is a must-see activity when visiting Hong Kong. Victoria Peak (or the Peak, as it’s known) is the highest point in Hong Kong and the views across the urban stretch are spectacular. We visited at sunset and took an Uber to the top after being scammed by a taxi driver. We were able to walk around and explore the top before the sunset. The ride down in the charming and historic Peak tram (costing 45 HKD for a return trip) is an experience of its own. It has the title of the world’s steepest tram ride with a slope of 27 degrees. Be prepared that the tram lines can take 30-60 minutes depending on the time of day.
Tian Tan Buddha: One of the most well-known and iconic attractions in Hong Kong, the Tian Tan Buddha (or Big Buddha as most people call it) is a beautiful spot. It is the largest Buddha statue in the world. It’s peaceful and sits high above Lantau Island and is a site of great religious significance. I’m not going to lie waiting in countless lines for the cable car took us all day and it was exhausting. If you’re interested in visiting the Big Buddha, I suggest arriving first thing in the morning to beat the crowds. The 360 Ngong Ping (cable car) is a 25-minute ride and it costs $130 HKD.
Choi Hung Estates: Choi Hung is one of the many sprawling housing estates in Hong Kong, made famous thanks to its pastel rainbow color scheme and architecture. Housing nearly 19,000 people, the basketball court is arguably one of the most instafamous places in the world. We were cracking up over all of the fashion shoots and selfies being taken here but of course couldn’t resist snapping a few photos ourselves.
Explore Mong Kok: Located in Kowloon, Mong Kok is what I expected Hong Kong to be like, busy, filled with shops, neon signs, and local markets. Kowloon has some incredible markets that truly highlight Hong Kong’s rich culture. Our first stop was the Flower Market, where streets of little shops teem with bright blooms. When visiting we loved smelling all of the fresh flowers on the streets. Continue on to the Goldfish market, which is further south down Tung Choi Street, and features shops selling- you guessed it- goldfish. Bag after bag of goldfish…along with plenty other varieties of fish. Next, we headed down the Tung Choi Street Market, more commonly known as the Ladies Market, which is a collection of vendors selling inexpensive clothing and accessories, along with electronics and fruit. It’s likely to be crowded, but it’s still a great classic Hong Kong experience.
PMQ: This historical building was recently transformed into a creative hub for local design talent. It now showcases over 100 independent fashion, design, homeware, and restaurants. This is where you’ll find well made, one-of a-kind items by artists and craftsmen. We bought almost all of our souvenirs and gifts here.
Yik Cheong Building: With a serious lack of space and an overcrowding of people in Hong Kong, it’s not uncommon to see huge buildings, like this one. It was also featured in one of the transformer movies, which has made it another instagrammable spot in Hong Kong. Because of its notoriety a new coffee shop opened up inside the courtyard and it was actually one of the best cups of coffee we had on our trip.
Nan Lian Garden: One of the things I liked the most about Hong Kong was the large number of beautiful parks, gardens, and greenery. They feel like refreshing pieces of tranquility among the non-stop hustle and bustle of Hong Kong. The most beautiful of them is Nan Lian Garden. The garden sits directly in front of Chi Lin Nunnery and covers 35,000 square meters (which is maintained by the Nuns). We had a beautiful day and spent an hour exploring the gardens, taking photos, and examining some of the unique plants.
Layover Tips:
Ride a double-decker Tram: Once popular in Europe in the past, these days, Hong Kong maintains the only full fleet of double-decker trams (also known as ding dings) in the world. With a price of 2.30 HKD per ride, they offer one of the cheapest means of transport on Hong Kong island. Make sure to claim a seat upstairs and enjoy the streets of Hong Kong
Arrival: After landing at Hong Kong International Airport, the best way to travel into the city is to take the Airport Express Train. In just under 25 minutes it will take you to Hong Kong Station in Central Hong Kong Island for 115 HKD. You’ll also want to purchase an octopus card while at the MTR counter so you can travel on the public transportation system whilst on your visit.
Currencies, payment and tipping: Although Hong Kong is officially part of China the currency used in Hong Kong is the Hong Kong Dollar (HKD) instead of the Chinese Yuan. Cash payment is still heavily used in Hong Kong, especially at food stalls and markets. Tipping is almost nonexistent in Hong Kong and not necessary.
Octopus Card: This is a great option for public transportation if you don’t want to bother with coins and stand in lines to get tickets for the buses, trains, or trams. The card allows you to simply tap and go on all transportation modes in the city. Topping up the card is also easy because you can do so at ay MTR station. One thing to keep in mind, is that the minimum top up amount is $50HKD and the machines only take 50/100 notes. We purchased our octopus’ cards at the airport.
Washing bowls: We went to a hole in the wall dim sum restaurant where the bowls and chopsticks were placed in a large basin with a pot of hot tea served alongside. We both sat staring at the bowls for quite some time scratching our heads, until I saw another table washing the small bowls and chopsticks with the tea. I then did some googling and found out that it is customary to rinse your dishes and utensils with tea before the meal. Because we had waited so long to rinse, our tea had steeped for quite some time and the entire scenario was a hot mess/ lost in translation moment. I also learned from my frantic googling that all the dishes have been washed but in keeping with food safety regulations, Hongkongers do this rinsing practice out of habit and custom- the son or daughter washes the plates for the parents.
Domestic helpers: Our first day in Hong Kong was a Sunday. We were confused why so many of the streets and train stations were crowded with women sitting on cardboard boxes visiting, eating, and playing cards. We learned that there are an estimated 20,000 female domestic workers from other countries living in Hong Kong. Most are employed as maids for the city’s wealthy families. These ‘helpers’ are expected to work twenty-four hours a day, six days a week, but laws dictate they must be given twelve consecutive hours of free time each Sunday. Since the women cannot afford to go to the movies or eat in restaurants on their day off, they gather in Hong Kong’s train stations, parks, and on the streets. If you’re in Hong Kong on a Sunday be prepared to see very crowded public areas.
