LISBON //

Lisbon, the city of seven hills, winding streets, and a rich history- also, the last stop of our one wee road trip through southern Portugal. The city has a plethora of things to do, coffee shops to discover, and incredible locals to mingle with. Oh, and did I mention it is ridiculously photogenic? You will undoubtedly fall in love with Lisbon after visiting. 

Where we stayed:

  • The Vintage Hotel and Spa: So we stayed in an airbnb our first three nights in Alfama, but our last night we spiraled and stayed at the Vintage and it was an incredible experience. Our room was pretty large and had tons of storage space for European standards. The interiors were **chef kiss* absolutely gorgeous with arched entry ways into the bathroom. The rooftop bar was small, but it was still incredible to relax and enjoy; the cocktails were also delicious.

What we saw:

Expore Barrio Alto and Alfama: Both are older parts of the city with plenty of tiled houses and colorful streets. Don’t miss either of these neighborhoods for their tucked away cafes, shops, and endless photo ops!

Santa Justa Lift: 45 meters high, this famous elevator was built to connect two neighborhoods. It is one of the top attractions in Lisbon, which means, you know it: long lines. There’s a also a fee to take the lift, and the view is not the best in town- many locals advise to skip it.

Castelo S Jorge: I suggest you make your way here in the late afternoon to enjoy beautiful 360 sunset views on the city’s highest hill. We explored during the day when the peacocks were up and putting on a show. Be prepared for long wait times and an entrance fee.

Belem Tower: a former defense structure and later a prison, the views and architecture are a must see.

Lx Factory: A trendy market hidden underneath the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge. This creative industrial mini town on an old factory site is a great place to stop and grab lunch, explore the bookstore, shop at local boutiques, and enjoy some street art.

What we ate:

Cafe Janis: This is the perfect brunch oasis. Cafe Janis offers delicious food and aromatic coffee amid cozy decor. If you need something stronger than coffee, they also serve delicious cocktails to spice up your brunch.

Dear Breakfast: They have many locations throughout the city and the service we received was amazing. If you’re looking for a great photo spot and delicious food look no further. I wish I could have walked out with the furniture and flatware at Dear Breakfast, but I managed to refrain myself. Don’t be shy with your order, I went all out and have zero regrets.

Taberna Sal Grosso: If you want to taste Portuguese cuisine, this is the place to experience it on it’s finest level. As one of the most popular restaurants in Lisbon you’ll want to make a reservation. The food is tapas style our favorites were the garlic broccoli, migas tomatoes, pork belly and orange salad, and the passionfruit creme brûlée for dessert.

Comba Coffee: So we didn’t have their food we just grabbed coffees to go, but they were delicious. They make their own almond milk in house and don’t sleep on their chai latte!

Time Out Market: A must when you visit Lisbon. This larger than life food hall is packed with a variety of restaurants serving local cuisine. This is probably more fun with a group of people so that you can try more dishes. Also, don’t forget to grab some freshly baked Pastel de Nada on your way out!

Seagull Method: The space is of course picturesque but the food was so delicious and beautifully plated we were shocked they weren’t charging more for their breakfast.

Tapisco: Tapisco offers uncomplicated yet delicious food in a modern dining setting. The open kitchen is an invitation for your sense to enjoy the food before it even hits your palette The highlight of the restaurant is La Bomba de Lisboa, which of course we tried. It can get packed, so make sure you either make reservations or show up at 7pm on the dot like we did. The service was beyond incredible and the staff was so friendly and welcoming.

Tips:

  • Purchase the Lisbon Card. The durations are 24, 36, or 72 hours and it provides unlimited access to the public transportation system and you’ll also receive free admission to top attractions. You’ll be saving money in the long run so definitely something to look into.

  • Eat as many Pastel de Natas as humanly possible.

  • Portugese food consists of a lot of seafood dishes (think cod, shrimp, and octopus), soups, and stews, and hearty meat dishes. Meals are eaten slowly and savored starting later in the evening, and it’s pretty typical for restaurants not to open for dinner until after 7pm.

  • Daniel and I both work in customer service so we always notice exceptional service. We always received extremely kind, thoughtful service when in Lisbon, which I wasn’t expecting in a larger city. Literally every place of business we were treated incredible, which is saying a lot considering we know about four words of Portuguese.

REYKJAVIK //

Two week Iceland travel itinerary: 

I know it says city guides (sorry for the deception) but I promise that everything we did in Reykjavik is below. The real beauty lies outside the city in my opinion, and that’s coming from a city girl. So make sure that your itinerary ventures out into nature. 

The other planet like landscape, natural hot springs, powerful waterfalls, volcanoes, and glaciers has become immensely popular over the last few years. Iceland is one of a kind and easy to travel. In a country with more sheep than citizens you can’t drive faster than 90 km/h on the main roads. A two week trip is the ideal amount of time to experience the most of Iceland. Always keep an eye road.is to check if the roads are closed because of snow, wind, or any other weather conditions you’re bound to encounter. 


Day 1: Arrival

We arrived at 6:45am and it took some time at the airport to go through customs, have our covid-19 tests checked, and renting our car. Because we visited at the end of October and beginning of November we decided we would need a 4x4 car. I would not recommend to start driving on day one, you’ll want to be well rested for the next days of driving ahead. After we secured our Dacia Duster (we quickly realized the car for tourists) we headed straight for the blue lagoon. Instead of staying in Reykjavik we stayed in the cute Hafnarfjörður, which was less expensive and closer to the volcano hike we planned on accomplishing the next day.  

TO DO:

  • Blue lagoon: We were too early for our check in at our Airbnb so we decided to have some relaxation time at the blue lagoon. The lagoon is conveniently located 20 minutes from the airport so it was the perfect stop. Starting our trip off with a soak in the warm geothermal waters was one of the best decision we made all trip. We really enjoyed the silica face masks and swim-up bar. The lagoon is made up of 70% ocean water/ 30% freshwater and is enriched with silica, algae, and minerals. It’s said to heal, nourish, and rejuvenate the body and mind. This first day was the least amount of jet lag I have ever experienced and I’m chalking that up to the magical powers of the blue lagoon. 

STAY:    

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/51409841 source_impression_id=p3_1636572601_3pYOmF87x8JfNlmY 

EAT:

  • Brikk: An Icelandic chain offering pastries and coffee. We were all obsessed with the sourdough that came with your choice of spreads or as they called them “salads.” 

  • RIF: Recommended by our airbnb host it was the perfect meal, relaxing environment and popular with the locals.

DAY 2: Fagradalsfjall Volcano

We were still a bit jet lagged this day so we spent most of the day planning for our big driving day, grocery shopping, and relaxing.

TO DO:

  • Hike volcano: The eruption of the Fagradalsfjall volcano started in March 2021. It took about one hour to arrive at the viewpoint. The trail is a little rocky and uneven, and does go uphill so bring some water and take it slow. We had no choice to take it slow because it was incredibly windy! So windy I could barely stand. We learned that October is the windiest month of the year in Iceland firsthand when we saw a few people topple over at the top of the volcano. Unfortunately it was no longer erupting but we could still feel the heat and see steam from the previous eruption.

EAT/ DRINK:  

  • Pallet: The cutest cozy coffee shop with a small selection of pastries available. It’s right on the water and the coffee was one of the best of the entire trip. 

DAY 3: Golden Circle

The Golden Circle is one of Iceland’s most popular routes. It is a route home to many popular attractions. If you only have a short time in Iceland I recommend spending the majority of your time in this area. 

TO DO: 

  • Reykajadalur- hot river hike: This hike was my favorite hike of the entire trip, the gorgeous sunny weather didn’t hurt either. The hike is about 2.5 miles each way. On the way to the river you’ll see several geothermal features. After about an hour of hiking we reached the thermal river. We were super relaxed, and melted into the rocks and mud.

Geysir: The geothermal area Haukadalur is most famous for the two geysers that are located there: Geysir and Strokkur. It’s also one of the most visited places in Iceland. Geysir is currently inactive and only erupts every few years. We visited at sunset and were lucky to see Strokkur erupt a few times. It erupts every 5 to 10 minutes. An absolute must see!

STAY:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/15574521?source_impression_id=p3_1636572653_f0VvNZDyFdVtx1Ax 

DAY 4: Waterfalls

We started our day in a hot spring, ate an incredible tomato filled lunch, and then explored waterfalls around southern Iceland. It was an easy and relaxing day. 

 TO DO: 

  • Hrunalang hot spring: One of my favorite hot springs. Picturesque and hot. We arrived early in the morning to avoid the crowds, which paid off. Make sure you pay the fee for the farmer near the parking lot.

  • Skógafoss is SO dramatic, and the birds flying all around really add to the atmosphere. Make sure you bring a rain coat if you plan one getting close to the waterfall the sheer power of the waterfall was incredible to experience.

  • Selalandsfoss is one of the most popular waterfalls in Iceland, and for good reason. We followed a nice trail to all different views of the falls, and even walk behind it! The waterfall can be viewed from every angle which is very unique in Iceland. Don’t forget a rain coat even if it’s sunny, the spray from the falls can drench you quickly depending on the wind direction.

EAT: 

  • Frioheimar: Iceland’s most unique tomato farm, offering lunch right inside the greenhouse. We ate tomato soup served with freshly baked bread and fought over the cucumber salsa. We also enjoyed a tomato salad with burrata and bloody Mary’s. 

DAY 5: Vik

Our day started at Skool beans for coffee and a bagel in the small village of Vik. Vik is Iceland’s southernmost town and faces the open Atlantic Ocean, framed by a long beach of black volcanic sand. One of our favorite and most picturesque towns that we visited, definitely a must see stop.  

TO DO:

Reynisfjara Beach is a beautiful stretch of coastline that is covered in black pebbles and sand. There are also some incredible basalt columns in this area that made for some great photos. This was one of my favorite stops on our road trip. Be mindful of the crazy sneaker waves at this beach, I ended up with a wet cold sock and it wasn’t the best feeling.

  • Dryholaey is a small peninsula with epic 360 views out to surrounding glaciers, coastline, mountains, and more. It is also famous for its picturesque rock arch and lighthouse perched on top.

  • Sólheimasandur plane wreck: The remains of a US Navy DC-3 are on a beautiful black sand beach. The hike (more like a walk) was a little boring and easy but it took a lot longer to complete than we thought (about 40 minutes each way).

  • Solheimajokull glacier: A quick hike/walk to the glacier is well worth it. Definitely the closest I’ve ever been to a glacier. We were able to walk around the lagoon to the mouth of the glacier and touch the ice.

EAT/DRINK: 

  • Skool Beans: We loved this place so much, we went twice. Located inside a renovated school bus this unique local coffee shop was adorable. The staff were incredibly friendly and kind and the coffee was great! We bought little mugs as souvenirs and were ignored by Jeffery the coffee shops resident cat.

STAY:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/40633415source_impression_id=p3_1636572708_1%2FGQ4t%2BihRsyd1zu  

DAY 6: Glacier & Hofn

We started the day in Vik with an early start and coffee at skool beans and ended the day in the fishing village of Hofn. The day included 3.5 hours of driving and lots of hiking, so be sure to start early. After hiking our tails off we settled for the night in Hofn and had the best meal of the trip and went to a local bar to enjoy some Christmas beers. All four of us agreed that this was our favorite day of the trip for obvious reasons. 

 TO DO: 

  • Fjaorárgljúfur canyon also known as “the majestic canyon,” is an awesome first stop of the day to stretch your legs and see some of Iceland’s unique geology. A quick one mile round trip trail takes you along the top of its moss covered rocky cliffs and provides gorgeous views of the vibrant blue river below.

  • Skaftafell National Park is most known for the scenic Svartifoss, a basalt-columned waterfall at the base of Iceland’s largest glacier field, Svinafellsjokull Glacier. We chose to do a loop and first hiked up to the waterfall and then did a more challenging hike towards the glacier and then back down towards the visitor center. My second favorite hike of the trip (if there was a hot spring it would have been first).

  • Diamond Beach: Here, ice is taken out of the Jokulsarlon lagoon with the tide, then washed up on this stretch of coastline with the waves. There aren’t many places in the world where you can find ice on the beach, which makes this spot so unique. The amount of ice found on the beach will depend greatly on how much ice has fallen off the glacier recently and the current tide cycle.

  • Jökulsárlón lagoon is one of the most famous and beautiful places in Iceland. We walked around the lagoon and took beautiful sunset photos. A must see.

STAY: 

  • Milk factory 

EAT:

  • Otto Matur & Drykkur: One of the best meals we had in Iceland. Food was fresh and delicious. The service was also incredible our server went out of her way to make us feel welcome and taught us a bit about Icelandic food and culture. Make sure you make a reservation here, we made the mistake of not making one and we were cranky/hangry by the time the bread came out.

DAY 7: Eastern Fjords & Seydisfjordur 

The Eastern Fjords make up a large region in eastern Iceland. This is the most beautiful and scenic drive day and we stopped a bunch of times whenever anything caught our eye. Take the driving slow and enjoy the views. Seydisfjordur is a quaint coastal town definitely worth checking out. A popular tourist attraction is the rainbow road leading to the town’s church, a symbol of Iceland’s progressive nature. This is also a great spot to grab a meal in town, enjoy the fjord views, and rest up. 

TO DO:

  • Stokksness (also known as Vestrahorn). There’s an entrance fee of about 7.50 USD, but it’s well worth it. Sunrise is an absolute dream here if you can get your butt out of bed. After going to the bar on Halloween we couldn’t get our act together.

  • Foladafoss: A little detour off the ring road the blue water makes a very impressive contrast to the black basalt stones. We planned to stop here for lunch but it was way too windy so we ate our sandwiches in the car and enjoyed the view.

  • Hengifoss & Litlanesfoss: Hengifoss is the third highest waterfall in all Iceland and is famous for its cliffs. To reach it requires a steep 3 mile hike but if you don’t want to go the entire way to the base of Hengifoss, you can shave off a mile round trip by stopping at the bench viewpoint of Hengifoss above Litlanesfoss and turning around there. There are also restrooms and parking is free.

Explore Seydisfjordur: Located remotely in the Eastern Fjords of Iceland the town is home to only 700 residents and it’s filled with creative people. Surrounded by mountains on all sides it’s off the beaten path, but totally worth a stop. Seydisfjordur is most famous because of it’s connection with a famous artist, Dieter Roth, who had an art studio in the town; which drew other creatives to live here.

STAY:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/15350111?source_impression_id=p3_1636572742_22J2rYFEbsTt%2FM2p 

EAT: 

  • Skaftfell Bistro: The main reason I booked a night in Seydisfjordur was because of all of the great restaurants that would be available for the first time in awhile on the ring road. When we arrived on November 1st we realized that everything was closed for the season except for ONE restaurant. Without a lot of choice we went reluctantly to Skaftfell Bistro. We had a lovely time and tried local craft beers and delicious pizzas in an relaxed and artistic atmosphere. 

DAY 8: Lake Myvatn

Known as the Northern Lights Capital of Iceland, the Myvatn area is home to Myvatn Lake- the fourth largest in Iceland and some landscapes that look literally out of this world. The whole region has an otherworldly feel to it with piles of lava stone suddenly approving on the landscape alongside craters. I wasn’t surprised to discover that this was one of the areas used for filming north of the wall in Game of Thrones. 

TO DO: 

  • Dettifoss is the second most powerful waterfall in all of Europe. You can view the falls from either the east or west side, but the west side is the more popular because of the restrooms, parking lot, and more manageable trails. There was a lot more snow than we were anticipating so once we made it to the waterfall we quickly turned around.

  • Hverir: Once here, you’ll soon realize why Iceland is named the land of fire and ice. Before stepping close enough to feel the heat from the geothermal area, you’ll be able to smell this place a mile before you arrive because it REEKS. We turned around pretty quickly because the smell was so nasty.

  • Gjotagja cave is a picturesque cave containing thermal water. It’s famous for the Season 3 scene of Game of Thrones. It’s no longer safe to bathe in the hot spring within the cave, but it’s well worth a quick visit.

  • Myvatn Nature Baths: Having walked through a snowstorm our reward for the afternoon was to warm our muscles in the geothermal waters of Myvatn Nature Baths. The baths are split into two main areas, one slightly cooler than the other, the cooler one has the better views. I however spent most of my time in the warmer pool, which has some rocky seats to lounge upon.

STAY:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/49037621?source_impression_id=p3_1636572777_BSicgMDWSYAnK9zj 

DAY 9: Akureyri

 is the second largest city in Iceland. There are plenty of restaurants, cafes, and shops in the city square to check out. At this point in the trip we were all getting tired so we spend this day recuperating and resting before the longest driving day of the trip. 

TO DO: 

  • Akureyri Botanical Gardens: Probably much more beautiful when in bloom, we walked around the snowy gardens and looked at the remains of what was once colorful in the fall.

EAT/DRINK: 

  • Cafe Berlin: Our first brunch of the trip and it was delicious! The waffle was to die for!

  • Strikio: We went here for drinks and enjoyed a gorgeous view of the city and ocean.

  • Centrum: The best seafood/ lobster soup for sure! The fish was fresh and the atmosphere was casual and chill.

STAY:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/49037621?source_impression_id=p3_1636572777_BSicgMDWSYAnK9zj


DAY 10: Driving day

We spent almost the entire day in the car and only stopped twice. I thought I would spend most of the ride reading or sleeping, but the views were so spectacular I spent all of the trip gazing out the window. 

TO DO: 

  • Fosslaug: Nothing wakes you up quite like stripping down to your bathing suit, and getting into the water only to find it’s lukewarm at best. Changing back into my clothes in the snow and then braving the snowy hike back made me realize that we were probably to late in the season to enjoy this hot spring.

STAY:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/17494078?source_impression_id=p3_1636572834_TJn12vVGZWhCx1Uw


DAY 11: Snaefellsnes peninsula 

Located in Western Iceland, the Snaefellsnes peninsula is home to waterfalls, lava fields, volcanoes, natural hot springs, Icelandic horses, massive cliffs, and small fishing villages. It contains almost everything Iceland is known for, hence it’s nickname “Miniature Iceland.”

TO DO: 

  • Svörtuloft Lighthouse is a vibrant orange lighthouse at the western edge of the peninsula. There is also a short trail to the lighthouse, and it’s a great spot to grab some photos and enjoy the fresh sea air.

  • Saxhóll Crater: This was an easy stop along the way complete wit beautiful views at the top. At first it seemed like a pile of brown rocks but as we were going down the crater I was able to appreciate the geology a bit more. It wasn’t my favorite stop so if you’re short on time, it’s skippable.

  • Djupalónssandur beach: It felt like we stopped the car every few meters to get out and take in the views of the cliffs and ocean. This was a quick stop at another gorgeous black sand beach.

  • Kirkjufellsfoss is one of the most famous photography spots and has one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland. The Kirkjufell mountain is the icon of the Snaefellsnes. There is a parking lot just on the side of the road so it’s easy to visit.

EAT:

  • Sker restaurant: We went here for lunch and all ordered seafood soup and fish and chips. It was cozy and modern and located in the cutest fishing village. 

STAY:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/17494078?source_impression_id=p3_1636572834_TJn12vVGZWhCx1Uw


DAY 12: Travel to Reykjavik

On our way back to Reykjavik we made a few stops along the way. One of which was getting our Covid tests, which we thought this was going to be a 2-3 hour ordeal after looking how packed the parking lot was, but we were in and out in 15 minutes. The drive into the city was quick and easy.

TO DO: 

  • Budir is a famous black church with dramatic mountain views. Mostly known as a photography spot, it was a nice little detour on our drive to Reykjavik.

  • Geðgberg cliffs: a row of perfectly shaped hexagonal basalt columns that run along a cliff. It was a bit muddy for a climb and we were slipping a bit. But definitely worth a quick stop to stretch your legs.

  • Hallgrímskirkja: One of the most iconic structures in Iceland. The church is named after an Icelandic preacher, and the structure is said to resemble the unique shapes and forms created when the lava cools into basalt rock. In front of the church is an impressive monument of Leif Erikson, the first European to land in North America. This church is undoubtedly different from other churches I’ve seen in Europe and definitely worth a peak inside. The church is free to enter; for 1000ISK, you can take an elevator to the top level. The panoramic view is a great way to see the city.

EAT/DRINK:

  • Reykjavik roasters: Probably the best and definitely our favorite coffee in the city. Their menu wasn’t in English and we felt bad making her translate the entire food section. So I just went with a bagel and lox, which was incredible, and called it a day. There are many different locations and we went to the one next to the church and it was eerily quiet, so if you want to talk I suggest taking your drinks to go.

  • Hi Noodle: After eating Icelandic food for 13 days we were ready to mix it up, and headed to eat some ramen. It’s a very small space so you may have to wait awhile for a seat, but it’s worth it. Highly suggest ordering the gyoza, they were 10/10.

  • Night life: Reykjavik is booming with more than 50 bars, lounges, and clubs all over it’s small downtown ares. They are all within walking distance which makes hoping around easy. Alcohol is very expensive in Iceland so the locals pregame at home with friends before heading out. We went to a happy hour at Bravo and then danced at the Kiki Club after. We headed out around midnight, which in Iceland is when people start showing up so it wasn’t crowded for us.

STAY:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/16893348?source_impression_id=p3_166572877_34CS0nJudHJC1dt8

DAY 13: Reykjavik

This was our worst weather day of the trip and we were starting wear down a little. We explored the city in the freezing rain and covered as much ground as possible, but we were cold, tired, and a little hungover, not the best combo. 

TO DO:

  • Sun Voyager: Most believe it’s supposed to represent a Viking ship, however the artist Jon Gunnar intended it to be an ode to the sun, symbolizing light and hope. Throughout the day, the sun shines on various parts of the steel and gives beautiful reflections.

  • Harpa concert hall: A social and cultural center right in the heart of the city. Definitely worth a quick stop to check out the stunning architecture.

  • Shopping: The main shopping street is called Laugavegur. We popped into so many different shops checking out Christmas decorations and local souvenirs.

EAT/DRINK: 

  • Kaktus Kaffi: Cute little coffee shop with tons of plants. The vibes were **chef kiss** They have a limited menu, but what they do offer was delicious.

STAY:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/16893348?source_impression_id=p3_1636572877_34CS0nJudHJC1dt8 

DAY 14: Departure 

Before leaving for the airport we went for a coffee and lunch. We had to return our rental car and wanted to be sure we had enough time to get through security and have our Covid tests reviewed. We arrived 3 hours before our flight which was a good idea because the lines were long and we still had enough time to shop. 

EAT/DRINK:

  • Mokka Kaffi: The oldest coffee shop in Reykjavik, the coffee was okay, but the sweets were incredible.

  • Café Babalu: A cute café offering pastries, sandwiches, crepes, and soups. It was the perfect stop before heading to the airport because the sandwiches were huge.

  • Braud Bakery: The best bakery in the city in my opinion, the cinnamon buns were my favorites.

PORTO //

Porto is underrated and surprised me in the best way possible. Porto is one of those magical cities that draws all kinds of travelers with its relaxed vibe. Promising post-card perfect views, azulejo facades and golden rooftops, it’s no wonder Porto is a European destination on the rise. If you’re looking for a healthy dose of culture, beautiful architecture, incredible cuisine, and not overrun by tourists- Porto is the place for you.

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WHAT WE SAW:

Livraria Lello: In recent years this bookstore has become a huge deal in Porto, so much so that it often has one of the longest lines in the city. That’s because this bookstore is famous for its beautiful interior that inspired JK Rowling when she was writing Harry Potter. Be sure to go right before closing because it’s much less crowded than the morning.

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Palacio Bolsa: The former stock exchange building was built between 1842-1910 to impress potential European investors. And impress it did. From the marble and granite grand staircase, you can also explore some of the buildings more impressive rooms. You can only discover Palacio Bolsa by taking a tour so be sure to look online at the tour times in the language you prefer.

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Luis I Bridge: One look at this bridge and you probably won’t be surprised that it was designed by Gustav Eiffel, the man behind the Eiffel Tower. Coming from the direction of the old city walls you can walk across this bridge and admire the views along the Douro river. We walked across the bridge to Gaia and the views were incredible.  

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Clérgios Tower: Rather than being covered in dazzling tiles, this church is positioned at the top of a steep road adding to its imposing nature. The narrow, slightly claustrophobic staircase which leads up the spindly tower offers exceptional views over the orange tiled rooftops of old downtown Porto.

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Explore the streets of Ribiera: One of the best ways to get to know Porto is to put on your walking shoes and explore the curves and hills of Porto’s cutest neighborhood. Getting lost in the hills of Riberia is the perfect way to see the city.

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Matosinhos: If the crowds in Riberia, Baixa, and riverside Gaia become a little too overwhelming (this happens, trust me), then the perfect way to escape them for the day is to take a day trip to the neighboring seaside city of Matosinhos. Matosinhos is much less touristy more chilled out and authentic feeling. A short walk from the beach there is a street lined with restaurants with open charcoal grills, grilling up the fresh catch of the day. Matosinhos’ beach is THE place to go and sample grilled fish in the sunshine and wash it down with a glass of chilled white wine, with grapes from the Douro valley.

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Admire the Azulejos: For those of you who don’t follow me on Instagram, I’m low key obsessed with tiles. This obsession was brought to a whole new level in Porto. The mosaics of painted tiles which dress the buildings of old Porto are the most captivating aspect of the city’s architecture. The azulejos are responsible for making the city pop so splendidly. The following four places are a must see to admire the azulejos.

  • Igreja do Carmo:

  • Praça de Carlos Alberto

  • São Bento train station

  • Chapel of Souls

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 WHAT WE ATE:

Eat Many, many, many Pastel de nata: If you’ve never tried these very traditional Portuguese tarts before, then your few days in the city offer the perfect opportunity to start your own addiction. You will find pastéis de nata in bakery windows and cafés all over the city. I made it an unofficial goal to eat as many of these as possible.

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Devor Francesinha: I first tasted this classic dish and my first thought was- this is the ideal hangover meal. It’s a sandwich made with thick bread, ham, Portuguese sausage, steak, and then covered in melted cheese, a tomato beer gravy and topped with a fried egg and served with French fries on the side.

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Cantina 32: Not only is the space super cool, but the food was divine. I mean they make banana butter- what’s not to love?! It’s best to book a reservation here in advance.

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Chocolataria Equador: This elegant store sells dark, milk, and white chocolate bars with flavors including sea salt, port wine, crispy rice, the list goes on! The chocolate is from around the world, but the bars are handmade in Portugal, with beautiful packaging. Though a little pricey, the bars come in a variety of size, are super dense, and make the perfect gift or souvenir. 

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WHAT WE DRANK:

VinoFino: The delightful staff made us feel very welcome and the wine from small Portuguese producers was excellent. If you want to try the local wines and Port or sample a variety at reasonable prices, this is the place to go. We also enjoyed local cheeses and olives which were also amazing! If you’re looking for a tapas style meal, this place is perfect.

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Fabrica Coffee Roasters: Fabrica roasts and grind their own coffee from Brazil, Ethiopia and Colombia. They also have their own mixes to give the customer the best possible coffee experience. To go with the coffee, small pastries and light meals are all served in a cool retro environment that will not disappoint.

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Combi Coffee: Started in a vintage van, Combi is now one of the leading specialty coffee roasters in Porto. Their first permanent location they converted from an old garage. It’s brightly lit with quality coffee and decorated to perfection.

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Ramos Pintos Caves: A visit to Porto wouldn’t be complete without a port tasting. I mean PORTugal and PORTo literally have the name port in them. I’m going to be honest with you…I don’t really like port (there I said it), so I was skeptical about consuming large quantities of this sweet and rich wine. We chose to try the three different ports; white, ruby, and tawny along with their house red and white wines.  There are over 50 port companies to choose from in Vila Nova de Gaia, just over the other side of the Douro River. We chose Ramos Pintos mostly because our Airbnb host recommended them. I couldn’t recommend them enough, the service was incredible, and it was a nice, quiet, relaxing environment.  

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TIPS:

  • While port wine is the talk of the town, I discovered vinho verde (green wine) which is native to Porto’s wine region. It’s slightly sparkling has citrus notes and it’s perfect to drink on a hot day. It’s a must try!

  • My number one tip for Porto would be to pack comfortable shoes. We walked everywhere, and almost all streets are cobblestone and tile. It’s also very hilly, so sneakers are a must.

  • When flying into Francisco Sa Carneiro (OPO) you can take the purple metro line into the city.

  • Daniel and I both work in customer service so we ALWAYS notice good service. I have to say we received extremely kind, professional thoughtful service while in Porto. Literally every place of business we were treated incredible, which is saying a lot considering we don’t speak any Portuguese.

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STOCKHOLM //

Stockholm is a city with a long and interesting history, and although it is the largest city in Scandinavia, it retains a quaint atmosphere with wonderful architecture and natural beauty of the surrounding islands. Stockholm is made up of fourteen different islands and has countless things to see and do between museums, parks, and historic streets and buildings. 

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WHERE WE STAYED:

Hobo: Hobo hotel instantly feels easygoing and inviting. The rooms are quite small but cleverly designed with metal framed headboards to hang lighting and bedhead cushions. Modern, forward thinking, comfortable, and fun, it gets the thumbs up from me. 

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WHAT WE DID:

Shop at Grandpa: This shop knows how to mix Scandinavian brands with international top names. They sell fashion for men and women, interior items, and accessories. Daniel bought a cool beanie and I bought a couple notebooks. You will easily spend an hour or more browsing through all of the knick knacks.

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Walk around Galma Stan: A historic island where there are many winding cobbled streets and quaint narrow alleyways showing the city’s heritage, including the Royal Palace and the Swedish Parliament. It is a busy working area as well as being wonderfully scenic. Gamla Stan is probably my favorite place in Stockholm. It is the birthplace of the city and dates back to the 13th century.

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Metro Subway Art: Stockholm’s subway art is the world’s longest art exhibit. Stretching over 110 kilometers, 90 of the 100 stations are decorated with colorful pieces of art. It all started in the 1950s when the city decided to make art more accessible to its citizens and beautify urban areas. Since then, more than 150 Swedish artists have contributed pieces to Stockholm’s stations.

  • T-Centralen (all lines)

  • Mörby Centrum (red line T14)

  • Stadion (red line T14)

  • Solna Centrum (blue line T1)

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Royal Palace: This place is HUGE! With over 600 rooms the Royal Palace (Kungliga slotted) is one of the largest places in Europe. A large chunk of the palace’s many rooms are open to the public, and you can admire the extravagant interiors and priceless works of art and craftsmanship.

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Stockholm City Library: While it many appear to be modern, the library was actually built almost 100 years ago, between 1918 and 1927. You can walk all the way up to the top bookshelves and admire this beautiful room from above. Perhaps the best part of this library is that it’s relatively unknown to tourists.

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Explore Södermalm: Bohemian and hipster, Södermalm has a very unpretentious vibe and its devoid of tourist hordes. There are countless unique shops, vintage stores and galleries that we popped into.

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Fika: Fika could easily be translated as coffee break… but this does not explain the importance of fika in Swedish culture. Fika is a philosophy, an institution. Companies have fika breaks in the afternoon and sometimes in the morning as well. By far the best part of fika are the famous Swedish buns - full of spice and not too sweet. Cinnamon and cardamom kanelbulle (buns) are a staple in Sweden; it seems they’ve just about taken over every inch of cafes, bakeries, and neighborhood groceries. Each of them served in a slightly different way: different sizes, different toppings, different ways of twisting, rolling, or knotting.

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WHAT WE ATE:

Gast Café: This cool-kid café has its all- dusty pink walls, wide-plank wood floors, neon signs in the shape of Pac-man ghosts, and arched mirrors.

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Rosendals Trädgård: An oasis in the heart of the city, this garden transforms with the seasons. It’s a café and nursery have a tremendous local following (the line was crazy long). There is open seating in a greenhouse and picnic tables spread out over the grounds. It’s collection of greenhouses and gardens serving up fresh garden to table every day. It’s a limited menu of things you can choose from on a long open table with the food perfectly arranged. They bake their own bread in the bakery, which smells amazing and you can shop for unique garden and kitchen items in there as well.

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Tradition: It would be rude to visit Sweden and not have a plate of Swedish meatballs. For first timers, choose the classic meatballs with traditional accompaniments including cream sauce, potato puree, lingonberries, and pickled cucumber. I had the potato dumplings filled with mushrooms served with lingonberries and browned butter and Daniel of course went for the meatballs. This was by far one of the best meals and service of the trip.

Pom and Flora: Pom & Flora is a small busy café with a casual vibe Their weekend brunch is crazy popular, we learned this the hard way waiting in a line stretching outside the café. One of the best parts of this place is that you can pick and choose your favorites from the menu and have them individually.

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Café Pascal: The award-winning café is located on a quiet corner and is a local hot spot. For breakfast we had eggs on toast with coffee and of course a Swedish cinnamon bun. If you choose to swing by at lunchtime, jump in line and choose between a mouth-watering selection of sandwiches, pastries and cakes.

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Barobao: The menu consists of illustrations of the dish and a small description. You can choose from eight different bao’s: from steak to salmon. It was a delicious Vietnamese meal with lovely interior details including greenery and classic Scandinavian wood.

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Fabrique: Buns, buns, buns, good coffee, delicious bread, and more buns. My favorite fabrique was the walnut. We visited three different fabrique locations because the buns are that good (I’m still dreaming about them). Fabrique has many locations all over Stockholm and it’s one of the most popular bakeries in the city. The fact that they have become a chain does not mean that quantity outdoes quality.

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WHAT WE DRANK:

Drop Coffee: Drop Coffee is Sweden’s highly rated roaster and coffee bar. Their coffee is light, yet smooth, complex and flavorful. Their store is packed, hip and buzzing. Drop coffee sets a high standard for Nordic coffee and the baristas are friendly and knowledgeable.

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Vete Katten: In the heart of Stockholm, one of the most revered coffee/cake shops is a must. Vete Katten has been around for nearly a century and is well known for its delicious cakes (I recommend the little chocolate balls), pastries, homemade pralines, teas, and coffee. It can get pretty busy here on weekdays so make sure you head there earlier in the day.

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TIPS:

  • Sweden is the most cashless society in the world, coins or notes barely make up 1% of the value of all payments in a year. Some places in Stockholm don’t even accept cash, so keep your cards ready.

  • It’s not cheap: We know, you’re probably aware of this- Scandinavia is a pricey place! However, we did really really enjoy that $6 cup of coffee.

  • Coming from a city where you can wander out of your front door and find at least 15 liquor stores out your front door, Stockholm was a bit of a culture shock. While you can purchase low-alcohol beer from a supermarket, anything stronger and you’ll have to find one of the government run Systembolagets. Brought in to control Swedish drinking (apparently, they had quite the problem decades ago), it makes buying drinks to have at home, Airbnb, or hotel a little trickier.

  • Taxis are totally not worth it as they are very pricey, and you’ll unnecessarily run up a high bill. Taxi princes in Sweden aren’t regulated so the prices will vary vastly. Illegal taxi drivers have become an increasing problem in the city when hailing a taxi on the street.

  • The fastest way to get from the airport to Stockholm’s Central Station is the Arlanda Express train which takes about 20 minutes

  • Whenever we head somewhere new, we love being able to speak at least the basic “thank you” in the local language. However, that really wasn’t needed because the Swedes speak excellent English, often without and accent!

  • Stockholm is one of the most connected cities in Europe an there’s access to free Wifi in many public spaces.

COPENHAGEN //

As you wander the streets and explore Copenhagen, you’ll get an inside look into the customs that shape the happiest people in the world. With clean design, minimalistic fashion and an advanced approach to work-life balance, it’s no wonder the “Hygge” lifestyle is becoming increasingly popular all over the world. When you return from Copenhagen, you’ll be ready to throw out half your closet, light some candles and cozy up with a good book by the fireplace.

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WHERE WE STAYED:

Hotel SP34: SP34 is a modern, hip hotel located right in the midst of Copenhagen’s restaurants, shops, and cafes. The fireplace lounge in the lobby epitomizes Danish hygge. Two of my favorite features of the hotel were the Ren skincare products and the heated floor in the bathroom.

WHAT WE DID:

Magstræde: One of the oldest streets in the old town of Copenhagen. The small lane exudes historic charm and character with its bend at one end, old cobblestone paving stones, and lovely buildings. It is narrow enough to imagine old wagons bouncing over the stones on their way down to the docks.

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Nyhavn: It is nearly impossible Copenhagen without a stroll along Nyhavn. The historic bright, colorful houses have been renovated and restaurants line each side of the old port. You cannot miss one of the most iconic street views in all of Scandinavia.

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Rundetaarn: The round tower is a 17th-century tower located in central Copenhagen which was built as an astronomical observatory.  You can stroll up the spiral walkway to enjoy the magnificent view old Copenhagen.

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Botanical Gardens: Copenhagen Botanical Garden is located in the center of the city and has 27 historical glasshouses dating from 1874. The Palm House, the most notable glasshouse, is 16 meters tall and has narrow spiral staircases leading to a passageway at the top. Some of the plants there are more than 100 years old.

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Freetown Christiana: Christiania is, according to Visit Copenhagen, an "alternative hippie society".  It is open to the public and incredibly interesting to explore.  All of Christiania is completely green, car-free, and the people there follow their own set of rules completely independent of the Danish government. This alternative neighborhood offers music venues, homemade houses, workshops, art galleries, and countless eateries!

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WHERE WE ATE:

Atelier September: I now understand why this place appears so many times through Instagram. The space is to die for and if I could, I would have had brought all the posters of Matisse with me. I ordered a latte with oat milk and an avocado toast which was great. FYI, they do not have any bathrooms (we learned this the hard way).

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Mad & Kaffe : This local favorite serves delicious - and photogenic – breakfast that has everyone lining up for their food. Grab a menu and pick from a variety of small dishes to make up your breakfast or lunch board.

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Sonny: Sonny coffee shop is one those place where you walk in for coffee but stay for the food. Their stylish crowd, hip décor, and delicious lunch special, will have you coming back for more. We both ordered the lunch special and it was by far one of our favorite meals of the trip.  

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Andersen & Maillard: In need of coffee and pastry, check out Andersen & Maillard. Known for its excellent coffee and mouthwatering croissants, coffee snobs won’t be disappointed here. It also offers a cozy atmosphere for those looking for more than just great coffee sip. 

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Kompa'9 : offers organic coffee, delicious food, and cozy atmosphere – perfect if you need to catch up on work or reading in a family room setting. They also have a wood-burning stove! It can’t get cozier than that. The barista was so friendly and joked with us about how the word cider is used in America vs. the rest of Scandinavia.

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Gao Dumplings: A casual restaurant bridging Chinese street culture with Scandinavian simplicity. This was a great inexpensive and delicious dinner. Our favorite was the spicy pork!

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Slurp Ramen Joint: This place has quickly become a local hot spot.  We showed up for an early dinner and had to wait outside for about 20 minutes because the line was out the door! The space is small and there is only bar seating, but that’s all part of the charm. The menu is even smaller, covering only three classics: shio, shoyu, and veggie ramen. Be warned that this was an expensive bowl of ramen for what we are used to.

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Torvehallerne KBH: Urban, covered marketplace featuring stalls with local produce, gourmet foods, beverages & desserts. A great place to pick up some local specialties or grab a quick bite for lunch.

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TIPS:

  • Being considered the most bike friendly city in the World, it’s obvious that bicycles will be seen everywhere. However, it’s very walk-able and you easily reach a large part of the city

  • Prior to your visit to Copenhagen, you may expect to be greeted by locals with toothy grins and echoing laughter. They are the happiest people in the world, after all. I was quite surprised by their stark demeanor and muted expressions. The locals have a very dry sense of humor, and while most speak impeccable English, you may find it difficult to strike up a conversation. Don’t mistake this for rudeness. Small talk isn’t as common in Scandinavian countries, and in their culture, short and to the point answers or directions is a polite way to respond.

  • Expect to burn a hole in your wallet. You will need to budget accordingly before heading to Copenhagen. It’s an expensive city, especially for foreigners dealing with a weaker dollar.

  • The streets in Copenhagen are immaculate. The tax rates are extremely high in Denmark, but locals consider this a reasonable price to pay for living in a clean, well-run city that offers a plethora of benefits for their home and work life.

MALMÖ //

Malmö is Sweden’s third largest city and once upon a time, it might have been a city that didn’t get attention from tourists. More recently this has changed, and it has become a popular destination for weekend getaways and vacations. With more than 150 nationalities calling Malmö their home, it is wonderfully urban, worldly and cultured. The mix of Swedish aesthetics and international influences combined with its Nordic coolness makes Malmö a great place for a short city trip. Malmö is a perfectly walkable city and offers sights, galleries, great shops, cool cafés and fine restaurants all in walking distance.

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WHAT WE DID:

Grandpa: A hipster mix of home items, stationery and fashion can be found at this cute store. Funky name for a funky shop! It is also conveniently (or should I say dangerously?!) placed next door to AB Småland on the main walking street.

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AB Smaland:  If you only have time to visit one shop in Malmö then make it AB Småland. It is modern rustic heaven with two floors of beautifully curated homeware and fashion. Also swoon worthy is their plant shop and cute café space dotted with vintage wooden tables and giant indoor olive trees.. Plan some extra time for this gem! Daniel wanted to kill me as I took multiple laps around the store plotting how I could fit as much as possible in my suitcase.

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Florista: A beautiful florist with an extraordinary selection of flowers, plants and dried flowers. One thing I found unique in Sweden were the beautiful dried flower arrangements in almost every place of business.

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Malmö Public Library: After noticing quite a few people enter this building, curiosity nudged me in. Entering the Malmö library took me back to my childhood. Maybe it was the quietness of the library, the gorgeous view of the park, or maybe it was the warm feeling that people still like to read books.

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Slottsträdgarden: Gorgeous and lush city park Slottsträdgarden (Castle Garden) is complete with windmill and lovely flower gardens. We explored for a few hours on a picturesque sunny cool day and loved gazing at the ducks and variety of plants.

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Saluhall: This market/food hall is a great option if you are unsure what you want to eat. Located in a renovated warehouse, you can choose from a wide selection of food stalls and indoor restaurants offering culinary delights. And afterwards you can stroll away and do some food shopping for home too. Look out for delicious local chocolates! We bought tons of Malmö chocolates to bring home to family and friends as gifts. We ate at St. Jakobs Stenugnsbageri for breakfast, where we had our first (of many) Swedish buns.

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WHERE WE STAYED:

Story Hotel: There are plenty of great places to stay in Malmö, but the Story Hotel is the only one that has a rooftop bar with stunning views of the harbor. The décor is pared back and industrial without ever feeling cold and uninviting. Concrete ceilings in the bedrooms are blended with deep colors and soft textures in the furnishings to create a stylish, warm atmosphere.

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What we ate:

Atrium: This light-filled cafe is quite a walk out of the city center, but it’s more than worth it for their delicious breakfast and lunch options and tasty cakes. This is the kind of cafe where you want to photograph everything. Seemingly set up for Instagram with its marble tabletops and counter and the abundance of plants. After devouring daily Swedish buns we were at the point of the trip where we were in need of a salad. We shared a kale salad with zucchini, beat root, quinoa and goat cheese and it was outstanding!

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Spoonery: With multiple locations throughout the city, Spoonery offers all kinds and varieties of soups. Daniel had the Swedish meatballs and I had the vegetarian hot pot. It was the perfect hearty meal on a cold November night.

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Dubbel Dubbel: From the outside this restaurant looks quite anonymous, but when entering, it feels like stepping into a hip bar in Hong Kong. The menus were not in English, so our kind and patient server translated and also suggested one of the set menus. They offer four set menus or the option to order a la cart. The set menu was the perfect amount of food for the two of us. Everything was delicious and well prepared. Our favorites were the pizza salad, Korean cucumber salad, and dumplings.

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Leve: I read quite a few blogs claiming that Leve was home to one of the most delicious buns in Sweden. They were not wrong! I would later call the softest and most delicious cinnamon bun in the world.

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Söderberg & Sara: If you want to experience a fika where all of the locals hang out then this is the place to go. It’s a café that serves quality in the trendiest of ways.

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Jord- frukost,fik, butik: One of those places where you instantly feel at home, Jord is a cute and light-filled cafe and boutique that serves amazing breakfast and pastries. We didn’t realize that Jord was Vegan, but we enjoyed spectacular mushroom and avocado toasts with oat milk lattés. Jord also hosts a little shop section which is filled with gorgeous items, most of them from local designers and artists.

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LAYOVER TIPS:

  • There are TONS of vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Malmö

  • Falafel is more than just fast food for people in Malmö. You’ll find countless Middle Eastern food stalls and restaurants selling falafel.

  • We took the bus a few times around the city when it was too cold to walk. We went to the Malmö train station and bought tickets for the bus. We carried around the tickets (receipts) that no one ever checked. We also never saw anyone scan in to ride the bus. It honestly still remains a mystery if you have to pay for the bus when riding within city limits.

  • Malmö is quite windy, so prepare yourself because there won’t be many days without it.

  • Most menus in restaurants and coffee shops are in Swedish but don’t worry, most Swedes speak fluent English.

  • We learn that in Sweden when ordering pizza, it always comes with “pizza salad.” Which is a cabbage vinegar slaw that is amazing with greasy/ fatty pizza. Pizza will never be the same.

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HONG KONG // 48 HOURS

With rich complex cultural heritage, Hong Kong is a place of great contrasts and is full of surprises. The city is vibrant, bustling and cosmopolitan. On top of that, Hong Kong has deeply rooted Chinese traditions that are fused with influences from the former 150-year British rule. Because of the multiple cultures the city is well-known as the place where “East meets West.” Although Hong Kong is usually considered to be much more expensive than other Asian destinations, the city remains a mecca for shopaholics, foodies, culture seekers, and outdoor adventurers.  

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What we ate:

Tim Ho Wan: For several years this restaurant was known as the cheapest Michelin Star restaurant in the world. Now surpassed in the category by Liao Fan Hawker in Singapore (which we visited), it still offers delicious food for the best prices in the city. When you arrive, grab an English order slip from the front counter and pencil in your order while you wait in line. Tim Ho has several locations across the city and is probably one of the best places to try dim sum.

Yum Cha: In Cantonese, “yum cha” literally means “drink tea” but it can also refer to the event of eating dim sum. This restaurant has a playful modern twist on the traditional yum cha with multiple locations across the city. Yum Cha are known for their adorable dumplings that are almost too cute to eat but they also offer a variety of traditional Cantonese dishes.

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Tsim Chai Kee Noodle: You know a restaurant is probably going to be good when they’ve been listed in the Michelin guide for multiple years. This small shop delivers steaming hot bowls of noodles with incredible speed. The menu is small with only a few variations of the soup; shrimp wonton, beef or fish ball. The hand pulled noodles and broth are the real stars of this dish in my opinion.

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Elephant Grounds: Elephant grounds is a micro roaster with a brunch of stores across Hong Kong. They have everything from ice cream sandwiches, eggs on toast, and of course coffee.

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Sohofama: Sohofama sits on the ground floor of PMQ (see below). It’s a Chinese fusion restaurant but between modern and traditional cuisines. The food is served stylishly and simply with fresh produce and locally sourced organic ingredients. We sat outside on the more casual patio enjoying the atmosphere. Be sure to try a cocktail they had many unique concoctions!

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Where we stayed:

The Fleming Hotel: Located in the Wan Chai district, this independent boutique hotel is one of my favorite hotels I’ve stayed in. All 66 rooms are ship cabin-inspired, with wooden panels on the walls, round edged accessories and retro details. The interior is stunning and the layout in the smaller rooms are extremely well throughout and functional.

What we did:

Victoria peak: Victoria peak is a must-see activity when visiting Hong Kong. Victoria Peak (or the Peak, as it’s known) is the highest point in Hong Kong and the views across the urban stretch are spectacular. We visited at sunset and took an Uber to the top after being scammed by a taxi driver. We were able to walk around and explore the top before the sunset. The ride down in the charming and historic Peak tram (costing 45 HKD for a return trip) is an experience of its own. It has the title of the world’s steepest tram ride with a slope of 27 degrees. Be prepared that the tram lines can take 30-60 minutes depending on the time of day.

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Tian Tan Buddha: One of the most well-known and iconic attractions in Hong Kong, the Tian Tan Buddha (or Big Buddha as most people call it) is a beautiful spot. It is the largest Buddha statue in the world. It’s peaceful and sits high above Lantau Island and is a site of great religious significance. I’m not going to lie waiting in countless lines for the cable car took us all day and it was exhausting. If you’re interested in visiting the Big Buddha, I suggest arriving first thing in the morning to beat the crowds. The 360 Ngong Ping (cable car) is a 25-minute ride and it costs $130 HKD.

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Choi Hung Estates: Choi Hung is one of the many sprawling housing estates in Hong Kong, made famous thanks to its pastel rainbow color scheme and architecture. Housing nearly 19,000 people, the basketball court is arguably one of the most instafamous places in the world. We were cracking up over all of the fashion shoots and selfies being taken here but of course couldn’t resist snapping a few photos ourselves.

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Explore Mong Kok: Located in Kowloon, Mong Kok is what I expected Hong Kong to be like, busy, filled with shops, neon signs, and local markets. Kowloon has some incredible markets that truly highlight Hong Kong’s rich culture. Our first stop was the Flower Market, where streets of little shops teem with bright blooms. When visiting we loved smelling all of the fresh flowers on the streets. Continue on to the Goldfish market, which is further south down Tung Choi Street, and features shops selling- you guessed it- goldfish. Bag after bag of goldfish…along with plenty other varieties of fish. Next, we headed down the Tung Choi Street Market, more commonly known as the Ladies Market, which is a collection of vendors selling inexpensive clothing and accessories, along with electronics and fruit. It’s likely to be crowded, but it’s still a great classic Hong Kong experience.

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PMQ: This historical building was recently transformed into a creative hub for local design talent. It now showcases over 100 independent fashion, design, homeware, and restaurants. This is where you’ll find well made, one-of a-kind items by artists and craftsmen. We bought almost all of our souvenirs and gifts here.

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Yik Cheong Building: With a serious lack of space and an overcrowding of people in Hong Kong, it’s not uncommon to see huge buildings, like this one.  It was also featured in one of the transformer movies, which has made it another instagrammable spot in Hong Kong. Because of its notoriety a new coffee shop opened up inside the courtyard and it was actually one of the best cups of coffee we had on our trip.

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Nan Lian Garden: One of the things I liked the most about Hong Kong was the large number of beautiful parks, gardens, and greenery. They feel like refreshing pieces of tranquility among the non-stop hustle and bustle of Hong Kong. The most beautiful of them is Nan Lian Garden. The garden sits directly in front of Chi Lin Nunnery and covers 35,000 square meters (which is maintained by the Nuns). We had a beautiful day and spent an hour exploring the gardens, taking photos, and examining some of the unique plants.

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Layover Tips:

Ride a double-decker Tram: Once popular in Europe in the past, these days, Hong Kong maintains the only full fleet of double-decker trams (also known as ding dings) in the world. With a price of 2.30 HKD per ride, they offer one of the cheapest means of transport on Hong Kong island. Make sure to claim a seat upstairs and enjoy the streets of Hong Kong

Arrival: After landing at Hong Kong International Airport, the best way to travel into the city is to take the Airport Express Train. In just under 25 minutes it will take you to Hong Kong Station in Central Hong Kong Island for 115 HKD. You’ll also want to purchase an octopus card while at the MTR counter so you can travel on the public transportation system whilst on your visit.

Currencies, payment and tipping: Although Hong Kong is officially part of China the currency used in Hong Kong is the Hong Kong Dollar (HKD) instead of the Chinese Yuan. Cash payment is still heavily used in Hong Kong, especially at food stalls and markets. Tipping is almost nonexistent in Hong Kong and not necessary.

Octopus Card: This is a great option for public transportation if you don’t want to bother with coins and stand in lines to get tickets for the buses, trains, or trams. The card allows you to simply tap and go on all transportation modes in the city. Topping up the card is also easy because you can do so at ay MTR station. One thing to keep in mind, is that the minimum top up amount is $50HKD and the machines only take 50/100 notes. We purchased our octopus’ cards at the airport.

Washing bowls: We went to a hole in the wall dim sum restaurant where the bowls and chopsticks were placed in a large basin with a pot of hot tea served alongside. We both sat staring at the bowls for quite some time scratching our heads, until I saw another table washing the small bowls and chopsticks with the tea. I then did some googling and found out that it is customary to rinse your dishes and utensils with tea before the meal. Because we had waited so long to rinse, our tea had steeped for quite some time and the entire scenario was a hot mess/ lost in translation moment. I also learned from my frantic googling that all the dishes have been washed but in keeping with food safety regulations, Hongkongers do this rinsing practice out of habit and custom- the son or daughter washes the plates for the parents.

Domestic helpers:  Our first day in Hong Kong was a Sunday. We were confused why so many of the streets and train stations were crowded with women sitting on cardboard boxes visiting, eating, and playing cards. We learned that there are an estimated 20,000 female domestic workers from other countries living in Hong Kong. Most are employed as maids for the city’s wealthy families. These ‘helpers’ are expected to work twenty-four hours a day, six days a week, but laws dictate they must be given twelve consecutive hours of free time each Sunday. Since the women cannot afford to go to the movies or eat in restaurants on their day off, they gather in Hong Kong’s train stations, parks, and on the streets. If you’re in Hong Kong on a Sunday be prepared to see very crowded public areas.

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KUALA LUMPUR // 48 HOURS

Known for its large international airport, Kuala Lumpur is known only as a stopover city. As the 7th most visited city in the world, KL has so much more to offer than the airport. With massive skyscrapers, shopping malls, and a technologically-driven culture, Kuala Lumpur is on the rise with tourists. Despite its modernity, Kuala Lumpur is still very much connected to its roots. The city is made up of many ethnic groups, especially those of Indian, Malay, and Chinese descent. The ethnic neighborhoods, food, and religious centers are all an indication of Malaysia’s respect for their past and future. The juxtaposition of the new an old makes Kuala Lumpur a unique city.   

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What we did:

Thean Hou Temple: A breathtaking gorgeous Buddhist temple with incredible architectural details. Thean Hou is one of the largest and oldest temples in Southeast Asia, it’s a peaceful place to spend the morning or afternoon.  The main temple and courtyard are beautifully adorned with lanterns all year round. This was by far one of my favorite places we visited.

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KL Forest Eco Park: Located in the center of the city, multiple hanging bridges create a walking trail through the jungle. It’s a relatively short walk and it’s free to enter. Even though I was dripping in sweat because of the heat, it was a beautiful nature walk.

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KL Tower: The tower stands at 335 meters and has an observation deck that offers amazing panoramic views of the city. The entry fees to the tower cost 55MYR for an adult and 45 MYR for children.

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Central Market: If you’re looking for souvenirs this is the place to go! Daniel bought batik shirts, placemats, and handkerchiefs. Batik is a local textile art depicting flowers. I bought two handwoven purses lined on the inside with batik fabric. Make sure you bargain down about 20-30% if you shop here.

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Batu Caves: Arrive early (around 7:30) to have the place to yourself and while the monkeys are still asleep! There is no entrance fee for the Batu Caves main temple, but you must cover your knees and shoulders to enter the temple. After climbing up the beautiful 272 rainbow colored stairs you’ll be rewarded with a stunning view of the city skyline.

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Federal Territory Mosque: Jamek Mosque is the oldest mosque in the city. It was built in 1909 and situated at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers, where Kuala Lumpur received its name. You’ll be fitted with some “chic” robes so that you’re appropriately dressed to enter the Mosque grounds.

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Where we stayed:

The Face Suites: Because we travelled for weeks out of a carry on, we needed to book a place with a washing machine. The other reasons we chose to stay here are because it’s reasonably priced and the incredible location. Another perk was the rooftop pool that overlooks the Petronas towers.

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What we ate:

Lisette’s Bakery: On our first day in KL we woke up early and headed out for breakfast. Lisette’s Bakery was one of our favorite meals on the trip. We each had a breakfast dish and split a delicious meringue pastry. All of their breads and pastries are made every morning, so we bought some treats to enjoy throughout the day.

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Limapulo, Baba Can Cook: Our first experience of Peranakan cuisine was one to remember. While we were enjoying our food, the executive chef watched on smiling from ear to ear as we slurped our broth. The venue boasts authentic, cozy, old-school vibes and decades old recipes. We ordered their signature dish, Laksa, which our waiter recommended. The huge portion of soup was creamy, tangy, and fragrant. It consists of noodles, fish balls, fishcakes, shredded chicken, sambal, and half an egg.

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Kajang Satay: Satay is something that is taken very seriously in Malaysia. In the afternoon we went to Kajang, the birthplace of Satay to check out the real deal. Satay is seasoned skewered, grilled meat serviced with a creamy peanut sauce. The meat was also served with rice steamed in a banana leaf and a side of cucumbers.

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Merchant’s Lane: After you walk up the stairs into the café, you’ll arrive into a hidden quiet getaway decorated with plants, bamboo chairs, and vintage knick-knacks. They serve hand crafted teas and coffees as well as a fusion of Asian and western style brunch.

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Chocha Foodstore: Located in a two-story Chinatown shop house the décor features rusty torn walls, exposed brick, worn patterned floor tiles, and plenty of old charm. The word “Chocha” in Hakka means to sit down and drink, hence the welcoming environment. The food is the real star here and menu is a mixture between Malaysian and Chinese cuisine with a modern twist.

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Layover Tips:

  • I suggest taking the KLIA Express Train from the airport into the city. The train stops at both terminals and is the fastest way into the city, avoiding crazy KL traffic. The train leaves every 15-20 minutes and is a quick 30-minute ride to KL Sentral Station. You can then transfer to the local city metro to get to your hotel.

  • There are no compulsory vaccines required for entry into Malaysia, the usual Typhoid, Hepatitis A, and tetanus vaccines are recommended. Because I’m an adventurous eater I decided to get the Hepatis A shot and I was up to speed with all of the other regular vaccines. Daniel didn’t get any shots before going and he’s alive to tell the tale so it’s really up to you and your comfort level.

  • Malaysia is just about on the equator so expect tropical, humid weather with temperatures around 80F to 95F

  • Water from the tap is not safe to drink. It’s recommended to drink bottled water and avoid drinking water from the jugs in restaurants or hawker stalls.

  • Grab is a rideshare company similar to Lyft or Uber that I highly suggest because it’s very inexpensive. When we went somewhere that was difficult to reach by public transport or I was melting because of the heat we would use Grab.

  • The mosquitos are no joke in Malaysia! Especially at the Batu caves so I suggest using bug repellent of some sort because I was eaten alive.

  • Malaysia is a predominantly Muslim country, so if you don’t want to receive negative looks, I suggest you adapt and dress more conservatively.  For example, covering your shoulders and wear midi skirts or pants. This is especially recommended for women.

SINGAPORE // 48 HOURS

Arriving in Singapore was like stepping into the future, with monumental skyscrapers arranged around the bustling streets.  Singapore is a vibrant tropical island town, with rich history and a fusion of cultures. With only a few days to explore because of flight delays we didn’t have any time to waste. Thankfully, the size of the island made it very easy to cover more ground and uncover local charm.

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What we did:

Gardens by the Bay: A trip to Singapore isn’t complete without a visit to the stunning gardens by the bay. The amazing supertrees have become one of the most recognizable and iconic landmarks in Singapore. We went twice, once in the morning, and once in the evening to watch the light show. I definitely suggest going at night as the supertrees come alive with bright and beautiful lights, illuminating the 82-160-foot trees.

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 Cloud Forrest: This was by far my favorite activity in Singapore, partly because it involved air conditioning all day. The glass dome features a 115-foot-high hill covered in beautiful trees, plants, and flowers, the amazing array showcases the diversity of the tropical highlands. From the top of the misty hill of the cloud forest we descended through a maze of suspension bridges while surrounded by lush vegetation.

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Koon Seng Road: Located in Joo Chiat, Koon Seng Road is Singapore’s best display of Peranakan (Baba-Nyonya) culture. The Peranakans were straits-born people of Chinese and Malay heritage. They settled in the area between the 15th and 17th centuries. This neighborhood is covered with pastel and multi colored, terrace houses embellished with facades of ceramic tiles and stone animals. Because of its colorful beauty, this street has become an Instagram hot spot.

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Haji Lane: I LOVED Kampong Glam, home to the Singaporean Muslim community. Haji Lane is a small street in the Kampong Glam area filled with street art. If you’re looking for unique shopping in Singapore look no further. The alleys are crammed with cute boutiques, trendy stores, and cafes.

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Botanical Gardens: The Singapore Botanic Gardens are definitely one of the top activities in Singapore. It’s the perfect getaway from the bustling city. The grounds are massive and have different landmarks and smaller themed gardens. My favorite, the main attraction, was the National Orchid Garden. As beautiful and tranquil as the gardens are be prepared for the mosquitos and the insane humidity.

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ArtScience: Even if you’re only in Singapore for a few days, the ArtScience Museum is a must-see. There are three exhibits at the museum. Entrance fees are $19SD for one exhibit, $32SD for any two exhibits, and $40SD for all three exhibits. Make sure to definitely see the Future World exhibit…it blew my mind!

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Where we ate:

A noodle story: When you see a long line at a hawker stall, it usually means they’re cooking up spectacular food. I am so glad we waited in line in the unbearable heat for this meal. The bowl of noodles is filled with vibrant colors and tastes. The portion is generous and meticulously prepared and presented. The egg was cooked to perfection and the crunchy shrimp was a delicious surprise!

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Liao Fan: The full name of this restaurant (longest brand name ever), “Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice Noodle.” One of two hawker stalls to ever receive a Michelin star, Liao fan serves up very humble and simple food. You’ll get a Michelin star meal for $2SD!! Since it’s in the name of the restaurant we both tried the Soya chicken and rice and also ordered Chinese broccoli and chrysanthemum iced tea. The chicken was the real star; crispy skin, full of flavor, and drizzled with thick soy sauce. 

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Don Ho: This is a new hip place on the buzzing Singapore food scene. It has a tropical theme and is really trendy and comforting. The cocktails were amazing but pretty expensive. We ordered a few plates to share, the crab cakes being my favorite!

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Punch: This was our first stop in Singapore, and it was one of our favorite cups of coffee on our entire trip. The service was great, and the staff are on top of everything! Besides the delicious avocado and mushroom toasts, we enjoyed, the restaurant itself is beautiful.

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Monument Lifestyle: It was 3pm and I was melting and desperately looking for a caffeine fix. The shop is part café and part hip clothing store with a California vibe. The menu is simple offering coffee, tea, toast, and pastries sourced from a local bakery.

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Layover Tips:

  • The public transportation is a dream! I recommend buying a 48-hour Singapore Tourist Card for unlimited travel on bus services and the metro. A 48-hour card is $16SD + $10SD rental deposit. You’ll get the $10 SD back when you return your card (we returned ours at the airport).

  • Eat cheap! You’ll get much better value eating at hawker stalls and they’re legendary in Singapore. Noodles, rice, meat, fish, vegetables, spicy, mild, sour, sweet…the options are limitless.

  • Be aware of the health inspector grades (A, B, or C) posted on each hawker stall. I would only suggest eating from an A or B.

  • The tissue pack! If you’re looking for napkins while at the hawker stalls, you won’t find them. You need to bring or buy your own tissue pack. Tissue packs also serve as a place holder and is the unofficial way to save your place (we learned this the hard way).

  • Booze is EXPENSIVE! I only had one alcoholic drink while in Singapore because it felt stupid to spend so much money on one drink.

  • Everyone speaks English, along with Malay, Tamil, and Mandarin.

  • The humidity is INTENSE. People warned me about the heat and humidity, and I THOUGHT I was prepared…. I was not. I think it’s something that you won’t be able to understand unless you experience it.

  • There are some strange laws that could get you in trouble if you’re unaware, but because of these strict rules Singapore is ridiculously clean.

o   Singing in public (< 3 months in prison)

o   Jaywalking ($20-$1000SD)

o   Being seen in the nude at home or hotel room ($2000SD)

o   Connecting to another person’s WIFI (< 3 years in prison or $10,000SD fine)

o   Feeding pigeons ($500SD)

o   Homosexuality (< 2 years in prison)

o   Not flushing the toilet ($150SD)

o   Smoking in public ($152-760SD)

o   Littering ($300SD)

o Spitting in public ($1000SD)

VENICE // 48 HOURS

I definitely had a love hate relationship with Venice for the short time that I was there. I had hyped up Venice in my mind to be the picture-perfect Pinterest images. It’s not that I didn’t like Venice, on the contrary. It’s utterly beautiful. It is such a unique place with a rich heritage, one of a kind architecture, wonderful Italian charm, and stunning beauty around every corner. As someone who daydreams about moving to each city, it was strange to not have that feeling in Venice. Venice is a city like no other – and that is not an understatement – it is truly a magical floating city.

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What we saw (did):

Palazzo Ducale/ Doge’s Palace: Home to the largest oil paintings in the world, visiting this museum was a great way to learn about Venetian history throughout the past. The palace is the epitome of Venice’s architectural glamour. You’ll even have the opportunity to walk through the famous bridge of sighs. The tickets were a little pricier ($20 per person) but I’m always willing to pay for a museum. And the coffee at the museum café was delicious!

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St. Mark’s Square and Basilica: This square is easily one of the most photographed places in Europe, it is a must. My mouth dropped when I saw the 45,000 feet of mosaics inside the church! They do not allow photography inside the Basilica, but I did not mind because I was so enthralled with the magical architecture. I was starting to get a neck ache from staring at the ceiling for the long amount of time.  

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Rialto Bridge: This is the most iconic bridge that crosses the grand canal. One of the city’s most recognizable landmarks, it can be packed with tourists. I suggest waking up early and walking along the famous bridge when it’s less crowded and snap some photos of the grand canal from the top.

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Liberia Acqua Alta: Located in Sestiere Castello, Liberia Acqua Alta is one of the most original bookstores in the world. Selling vintage and new books, this place is literally filled with books from floor to ceiling, displayed in boats, gondolas, and bathtubs. Make sure to squeeze around back for a photo op!

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Explore the canals: There is no better way to discover Venice than to walk around and explore the tiny charming alleys and canals and watch the locals going about their daily businesses. Getting lost in the maze of the canals, popping into a few churches and coffee shops is the best way to get an authentic feeling for Venice. Wandering the canals was when I took the majority of my photographs for Instagram. 

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Burano: If you’re planning a trip to Venice, make sure to designate one day to visit the beautiful and colorful island of Burano. Even though Burano is part of the lagoon of Venice, it feels like you are visiting a completely different place. While Venice is packed with tourists, has narrow alleys, and is mostly warm earth colors, Burano is much more spacious, has wider walkways, and every house is painted a different vibrant color. I loved the laid-back vibe of being in an old fishing village. The fisherman painted their homes with vibrant colors to help them find their way home after a long day at sea and the tradition has continued today. We bought a day ticket (14 euros each) on the vaparrato (water taxi). Even though it rained the entire day it was worth traveling to see the famous multicolored island.   

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What we ate:

Farini: We stumbled across this cute café after smelling fresh bread from the street and we ended up eating the best pizza I’ve ever had in Italy. The crispy pizza crust straight from the oven alone will have you coming back for more! We met fellow Americans in line and they were ranting and raving about Farini, but especially the lasagna, which was also outstanding. My sister and I went back for breakfast the next morning to try their pastries and they were out of this world! If you’re looking for a quick, cheap, and delicious meal or snack make sure you stop into Farini!

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Layover Tips:

  • Be aware that many restaurants in Venice charge a seating fee (a cover charge) that’s often written in Italian in small print at the bottom of your bill.

  • Restaurants are fairly expensive so you’ll need to actively seek out budget restaurants

  • Wake up early and stay out late! The crowds during the day are sometimes unbearable due to the cruise ships in port. I suggest waking up early to explore Venice, take an afternoon nap, and then continue during the evening and night.

  • There are NO cars in Venice. If you’re expecting to be dropped off at your hotel, be prepared to drag your suitcase across cobblestone streets and bridges.

  • Do NOT rely on Google Maps in Venice. Most of the street names repeat several times so buy a paper map.

  • Eat seafood! Venice is coastal, so this is the perfect opportunity to try fresh seafood.  

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DUBLIN // 36 HOURS

Dublin is currently experiencing a period of significant economic and cultural growth. The walkable and tourist-friendly city is a fascinating mix of old and new which blends tradition with modernity. Drinking is not the only activity to do in Dublin, but I still highly recommend grabbing a pint at least once a day. Frequently I’m asked why I love Dublin so much and it’s a difficult question to answer.  Maybe it’s because I’m a fan of cooler temps, or maybe it’s because the city boasts a bustling little city center, or maybe it’s simply because Dublin is a beautiful city with so much to do. So much so, that one weekend is certainly not enough time.

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What I saw/ did:

Dublin Castle:  The castle sits in the city center between Trinity College and Christ Church Cathedral. You may recognize the castle from a few movies and TV series such as The Tutors. Dublin Castle has been destroyed and rebuilt several times and its story plays a large role in Ireland’s history. Walking through the grounds was relaxing and we sat in the main square for an hour soaking up some sun. 

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Guinness Storehouse: At Dublin’s number one attraction we took a guided tour at the Guinness Storehouse, an interactive museum about the Guinness brewery. Although it’s touristy, it was surprisingly fun! We had an awesome guide, tasted Guinness, explored its iconic history, and poured our own pint of Guinness. I suggest either booking the first or the last tour of the day. I have done both times and there were no lines. We were also able to have the zero-gravity bar to ourselves!

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Trinity College: One of the most famous places to visit in Dublin is Trinity College, Ireland’s oldest university. The university was founded by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592 and has a jaw dropping library that displays the Book of Kells, an embroidered Latin version of the Bible. The lines at the library can be long. We learned this the hard way, so be sure to purchase your ticket in advance and go early in the morning. 

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Go to a pub: Dublin is famous for its funky and fun nightlife. Of course, everyone will tell you to go to Temple Bar, which I also recommend. There are pubs around every corner, more than you would think possible.

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Shop: Like any major city, Dublin also has incredible shopping. The main shopping street is Grafton Street. I was pleasantly surprised to see quite a few local Irish labels were represented on Grafton street. The Irish are very supportive of their own manufacturers, so as a shopper in Dublin you should try and do the same. One of my favorite shops I visited was Industry, a home goods store which also has a tiny café. It’s impossible for me to walk out without making a purchase or two.

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Wander Around: One of the best ways to see Dublin is to just wander around aimlessly. We found some of the most beautiful Georgian architecture and popped into a few pubs and coffee shops along the way. 

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What I ate/ drank:

Fish Shop: This is the best fish and chips I’ve ever had. The Irish Times agreed with me naming Fish Shop the best fish and chips in 2017. At the Benburb Street location their menu comprises only of small bites and fish and chips. The simple menu reflects how much care goes into each meal they prepare. They also offer an extensive wine menu chosen to perfectly pair with the fresh seafood. 

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Klaw: Klaw is a seafood shack located in the city center of Dublin. The entire restaurant is the size of a walk-in closet so make sure you arrive early to get a seat. An even better reason to arrive early is Oyster Happy Hour every day from 5pm-6pm paired with a glass of Guinness or Prosecco. They have a large chalkboard menu that takes up an entire wall listing all of the fresh catches of the day. We ate mac and cheese, mussels, seafood chowder, and flambéed oysters.

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Queen of Tarts: Hands down one of my favorite spots in Dublin. If you’re looking for a traditional Irish breakfast look no further. I’ve been to Dublin three times and each time I order the vegetarian breakfast. You can dig into homemade buttermilk brown breads, daily made soups, sandwiches, and sweets including Bailey’s chocolate chip cheesecake and raspberry scones. 

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Layover Tips:  

  • The early bird gets the worm in Dublin. As there are many other tourists with the same agenda, I suggest waking up early and hit the ground running
  • Take the Airlink bus (bus number 747) from the airport into the city center. It’s an express bus service that costs 6 euros.
  • Non-EU travelers can shop tax free through a Fexco Horizon card.
  • In restaurants with table service it’s normal to tip between 10-12 percent but be sure to check the bottom of you bill because sometimes they have already added in a service charge.

TULUM // 48 HOURS

Located 80 miles south of Cancun on Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula, Tulum provides visitors a tranquil landscape and haven for relaxation. You’ll find less crowds, more locally owned hotels and restaurants, and a laid-back and bohemian chic culture that is quite contagious. Amongst the pristine beaches, fantastic restaurant scene, Mayan ruins, cenotes, and amazing spas, Tulum has a little bit of something for everyone.

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What we did:

Tulum ruins:  I suggest arriving as early as possible to beat the crowds at these oceanfront ruins. We arrived at 8am and the timing was perfect because we beat all of the crowds. The ruins are unique because they overlook the ocean and the views are spectacular. However, there is one thing I would have done differently; wear bug repellent. I was eaten alive by mosquitoes during the jungle walk to the ocean. Visiting Mayan ruins has been on my bucket list and it was incredible walking through the ruins while looking out on to the ocean. 

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Coba ruins:  Coba is a large and expansive ancient Mayan Ruins site located about a half an hour outside of Tulum. These ruins are scattered throughout the jungle and consist mostly of partially restored structures. You can choose to explore the grounds by renting bikes, paying a bike taxi, or just walk like we did! It was a 2km hike to Nohoch Mul. If you’re not in the mood for a walk you can rent bikes. Only 2% of the Coba ruins have been excavated so when walking around the grounds you will see large hills covered by trees and jungle vegetation. Under these hills are unexcavated structures hidden in the jungle. In addition, Coba is home to the tall and impressive Nohoch Mul pyramid, which is one of the few ruins left allowed to be climbed. At the top, you will be rewarded with spectacular views of the surrounding jungle landscape and lush green tree tops. Climbing (or in my case scooting on my butt) down the largest ruin in the Yucatan was a much more difficult feat than walking to the top.

On the way home from the ruins we stopped at a fruit stand on the side of the road and had some delicious empanadas, fresh fruit, and coconut water! After we drank all of the water out of our coconuts they cut them open for us and we squeezed lime juice into the center and scraped out all of the yummy coconut meat!

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Gran Cenote: Before I begin let’s talk about what a cenote is. Centoes are sinkholes that have formed from collapsed limestone which exposes the underwater rivers. They are most prominent in the Yucatan peninsula. The water is natural fresh clear water that’s colder than the ocean and filled with colorful marine life.

The Gran Cenote is one of the most popular cenotes in Tulum. I immediately jumped into the clear water and swam along with sea turtles. We also saw tons of fish and bats that were living in the caves above. You can rent snorkel equipment, life vests, and lockers while at the Gran cenote if you choose.

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Cenote Calvera: Our second stop was also known as the Temple of Doom which was our favorite cenote. We saw some intense scuba divers jump into this cenote ready to explore the underwater caves. Ceonte Calvera had three different holes to jump into which is supposed to represent a skull. I was a chicken and used the ladder to enter the centote. We weren’t able to see as much marine life in this cenote because of the darker water. Overall it was much less crowded than the Gran cenote and is worth a visit.

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Explore the town: Tulum city is a great way to spend a few hours. There’s one main colorful stretch of shopping and restaurants that’s impossible to miss. While we mostly expected to find tourist junk, we did find some beautiful pottery, handmade dream catchers, hammocks, and bought some pom-pom decorations.  There are countless souvenir shops, so much cheaper than on the jungle road, and local eateries with delicious authentic Mexican food.

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What we ate:

Raw Love: If you love juices, smoothies, acai bowls, and fresh coconut than this is the place for you! We both ordered smoothie bowls with local fruit while digging out toes into the sand and enjoying delicious coffee with coconut milk.

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Burrito Amor: Located near our Airbnb and in central downtown Tulum, Burrito Amor was so delicious that we ate here twice! They have an extensive list of beverages smoothies, juices, coffee, and horchata!  They’re most known for their breakfast burritos which you can get with cactus, smoked pork, dried beef, or a vegan burrito. The best burrito I’ve ever had!

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Posada Margherita: An Instagram dream on the beach with the best Italian food in Tulum. We came here on our first night to watch the sunset and enjoyed tasty fresh pasta with shrimp and zucchini.

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Gitano: There are countless fantastic restaurants in Tulum, but Gitano (gypsy) was such an amazing experience. The décor is comfy bohemian, chic, and looks like a jungle getaway. It’s the go-to spot in Tulum for sampling artisanal mescal. We ordered tacos, grilled avocado, ceviche, and a chocolate mousse for dessert.

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Layover Tips:

  • Plan on renting a car unless you are only planning on staying around the beach area off jungle road
  • When visiting the cenotes don’t use any creams or lotions before swimming because it can poison the marine life
  • We didn’t take a cenote tour because we thought that we could do the same thing ourselves since we already rented a car. We brought our own snorkel to share and it ended up saving us money
  • There are no direct flights to Tulum. Fly into Cancun and rent a car, book a private shuttle, or use public buses
  • Always have cash! ATMS have high fees and many of them weren’t working. Most places do not accept credit cards
  • US Dollars are accepted at some restaurants but will charge extra to exchange
  • I was eaten alive by mosquitoes so plan on packing bus spray!

 

HAVANA // 36 HOURS

Havana, ooh na-na was the theme song to my two-day trip to Havana! The Cuban capital is beautiful and full of life - two days is not enough time to explore the city. Arriving in Cuba felt like going back in time. Or maybe Havana is that magical place that time has only rediscovered? The city is a cultural epicenter comprised of music, dance, art, and pure happiness.

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Where we stayed:

Hotel Revolution: Choosing a hotel in Havana required some considerable research. We ended up staying at Hotel Revolution as it has great reviews online and is centrally located in Old Havana. The hotel staff was inviting, hospitable and most importantly multilingual (a must with our tragic excuse for Spanish). The entire hotel staff really took amazing care of us, customizing our travel arrangements and referring several amazing restaurants in the city.  Best of all, our nightly rate included a typical Caribbean breakfast with juices, eggs, and toast. I definitely suggest booking an Airbnb because that way you will have a better idea of what’s included aka “Does it have AC?”

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What we saw (did):

Explore the city: One of the best ways to see and experience the city is to simply wander the maze of streets that comprise Havana. There is so much to see and experience! The streets are lively with street vendors and performers. Start by strolling down Calle Obispo, taking in the bright colored buildings, and order a mojito from any of the bars lining practically every corner. Strolling down the streets of the Centro Havana neighborhood helped me gain a better sense of Cuban culture and daily Cuban life – this is a must!

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Walk along the Malecon: The Malecon is a large stone wall that separates the Caribbean Sea from Havana. We strolled along the Malecon enjoying the views. At night, the Malecon is a popular spot for locals and tourists to hang out.

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 Palacio del Segundo Cabo: We stumbled across this history museum which explains Havana’s colonial past (mostly in English, which was a huge plus)!

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Havana Rum Club Museum: Believe it or not but before this trip I had never tasted Havana Club rum before and wow was it delicious (especially in all of the cocktails we drank)! Per recommendation we headed over to the Rum Museum and took a tour in English to learn and taste Cuba’s most famous rum. 

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Car Tour/ Ride: New ride, who this? You can book a tour around Havana in an old 1950s American car with your hotel or Airbnb. Alternatively, you can approach one of the many drivers lined up along the streets near the capitol and negotiate your own price. Another great cost friendly option is catching a ride in a taxi as you can still get the same experience and photo ops. I have to say, the 1950s cars are as amazing to ride in as you’d expect them to be… I felt like I was in the movie Grease cruising around in a hot pink bel air with the wind in my hair listening to reggaeton music.

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What we ate: 

La Guarida: La Guarida is by far the best restaurant in Havana and is a must! I recommend making a reservation two weeks in advance (you will also be required to confirm your reservation 24 hours before you arrive). The restaurant is located on the top floor of an old crumbling mansion that was once a movie set for a famous Oscar nominated movie, “Fresa y Chocolate.” On the highest floor, you’ll find a rooftop bar that has incredible panoramic views of Havana (a great place to watch the sunset). The food was by far the best meal I had in Cuba. I ordered the nightly special of lobster tails and mushroom risotto while Daniel (my husband) chose the more traditional ropa vieja. The food really gives you a taste of Cuban classics with a modern upscale twist.  

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Centro de cultura andaluza: We spotted a rooftop restaurant from the street located on top of a cultural center, so we headed to check out their menu. You all know how much I love a rooftop! Since we had dinner reservations later at La Guarida we chose to snack on some ceviche and chicken with rice. 

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El Bambu: During our first night in Havana, we stumbled across this paladar. It’s a cross between a café and a bar because of its small size and quaint atmosphere. The restaurant had an extensive cocktail list and the menu included Cuban classics with a Greek twist. Daniel and I shared a charcuterie plate and some of the best crispy chicken I’ve ever tasted. 

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* Restaurants in Cuba are either privately-owned or run by the government. Government-run restaurants are renowned for having poor quality of food. Paladars (privately owned) have MUCH better food and it’s also more reasonably priced.  Additionally, frequenting paladars supports new startups in Cuba. A win-win in my book! All of the restaurants recommended above are paladar restaurants.

Where we drank:

La Floridita: Home of the daiquiri and a frequent home to Hemingway. Be sure to check out this tourist spot while in Havana. La Floridita is filled with a mix of tourists and locals enjoying delightful and citrusy daiquiris while listening to live Cuban music.

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Hotel Saratoga: This cocktail list was the most extensive we came across in Havana, including Cuban classics like mojitos, daiquiris, and caipiriñas.  We relaxed and listened to the pianist while indulging in some WiFi. We purchased an internet card from the business center and it was the fastest signal in the city. If all of this wasn’t enough to entice you, it’s also where Beyoncé stayed when she visited Havana. If it’s good enough for Queen B then it’s good enough for me!

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LT (layover tips):

  • Make sure to only drink bottled water to avoid any potential stomach issues.
  • Since the internet is sparse it’s a good idea to print out all travel documents and reservations before you go – it’s better to be safe than sorry!
  • Cuba has a two-currency system. There is once currency for the locals and one for tourists (CUC). There are not a lot of cash points in the city so I suggest exchanging at the airport. While I normally won’t carry cash, and rely on my credit card, it is the opposite in Cuba. Make sure to get plenty of cash to be covered for your trip.
  • I suggest packing toilet paper, snacks, hand sanitizer, bandaids, Tums, and Tylenol. These products are scarce in Cuba and when available they are ridiculously expensive. While you may not need these items, they will be a lifesaver if something goes wrong. I developed a blister and I was so thankful I brought bandaids!
  • Traveling with a United States passport was a little more difficult than anticipated. I roll my eyes at people that tell me to get to the airport 2 hours before, but this time you actually need to do it.
  • With a United States passport, you will be asked which of the 12 licenses you are traveling under because tourism is technically not permitted. I suggest you choose “support for the Cuban people” license. I travelled using this license and didn’t run into any issues.
  • On the flight, you’ll fill out a Sanitary Statement and an Embarkation and Debarkation form. On these forms, you want to indicate that your reason for travel is tourism.
  • There is no limit on the number of Cuban cigars you can bring back into the US.
  • Make sure to carry some 1 CUC bills for tips. The Cuban people only make the equivalent of $20 a month therefore many Cubans have multiple jobs for additional income. For example, the pianist at Hotel Saratoga is a chemist by day and a pianist by night. As an American I’m accustomed to tipping but this was an extra nicety. 
  • Havana tends to run on island time, so patience is required at restaurants and attractions.
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MANCHESTER // 72 HOURS

Layovers as a flight attendant are typically 24 hours and usually consist of a whirlwind of sightseeing, eating, and drinking. This layover was different because it was the longest layover I’ve ever had.  As the trip was over Thanksgiving, other crew members brought their loved ones so naturally I brought my husband, Daniel. When most people think of Manchester their first thought is probably the famous football team Manchester United, but there is so much more the city has to offer. Manchester is modern with a beautiful town hall, museums, cathedral, murals, and tons of shopping. This was my third-time visiting Manchester and I couldn’t wait to dive deeper into the city. In the height of the industrial revolution Manchester was a hive of activity and the workers inside the textile mills were compared to bees. While walking around the city you will notice a common theme of bees around the city, as it is the symbol of Manchester. 

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What we did:

John Ryland Library: If you’re a bookworm like me be sure to visit the John Ryland Library. It has a collection of historically significant books including a Gutenberg Bible. The library is linked to Manchester University and the interior looks like it’s straight out of Hogwarts. If you’re looking for some peace and quiet from the city, this is the perfect place to relax.

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Christmas Market: The Christmas market is located all over the city, but the largest installment is beside Manchester Town Hall in Albert square. You can eat your way through the market like we did sampling delicacies from across Europe and of course sip mulled wine.  

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Northern Quarter: Walk the Northern Quarter and gaze at the street art and pop into quirky shops that sell old records, vintage clothes, jewelry, and coffee. The Northern Quarter is most famous for its street art which displays local history, social and political issues.

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Day Trip to York: I’ve always wanted to go to York, so we hopped on a train and headed over to the cute and quaint city on Thanksgiving Day. With influences from the Romans, Vikings, Tudors, and Victorians, there’s a whole snapshot of British history in one city. It’s quaint cobbled streets, medieval architecture, tea rooms, and cozy pubs make York a must see. Make sure to see York Cathedral, the city walls, Cliffords Tower, and the Shambles. Also, there are so many cute chocolate shops so make sure to pop in and taste a few delicious handmade chocolates!

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Manchester Art Gallery: Travelling isn’t always about hunting down the most instagrammable spots, it’s also your chance to get cultured! While I didn’t visit the art gallery on this trip, I’ve visited in the past and it is a must see. Make sure to check out the gift shop for cute souvenirs!

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Oklahoma: One glance in these colorful shop windows and my husband new immediately we would be here awhile. It’s filled with 2000 unusual products from both independent and established producers. Oklahoma holds the crown for the largest shop in Manchester. I’m a sucker for cards with cute illustrations and trinkets to fiddle with so a purchase was inevitable.

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What we ate:

Mackie Mayor: Once a meat market from 1858 it reopened in October as a European food hall after being abandoned for over a decade. Grab a pint or a glass of wine and choose from food stalls including fish, pizza, chinese the choices are endless. There are long communal tables to eat from so it’s a nice social eating experience. 

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The Alchemist: If you’re looking for a unique cocktail, this is the place to go! We went with our crew on our last night in Manchester and everyone ordered different drinks and it was fun to taste and admire their rareness. The modern décor, atmosphere, and comfort in the cool leather chairs made for a fun experience.  

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Sugar Junction: I ordered afternoon tea which came with a bountiful tiered platter of sandwiches, cakes, jams, clotted cream, and of course tea. It was so fun to sit drink tea and marvel at the vintage décor. Pick from their selection of 18 different teas and coffees or sip on a retro cocktail.

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BonBon Chocolate Boutique: After being worn out from walking around the Norther Quarter all day we needed an afternoon treat, so we headed into a tiny black shop with a wooden sign that said “Chocolate.” We were blown away by the delicious hot cocoa and the variety! If your adventurous, go for the chili hot chocolate.

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Fig and Sparrow: You all know that I live for a cute coffee shop and Fig and Sparrow is no exception. This coffee shop is even better because they have trendy knick knacks and paper goods to snoop through while enjoying your coffee.

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Layover Tips:

  • It’s customary to tip 10% in restaurants though it’s not always necessary. Being an American I’m used to always tipping so I tipped 10%
  • Make sure you look up Manchester United and Manchester City playing schedule before booking your trip because the city is packed on game days
  • Compact and easy to navigate, Manchester is best explored by foot, but don’t forget your raincoat
  • Taxi’s from the airport can be pricey but trains are available that take you right into the city center for a fraction of the price

 

 

 

SAN FRANCISCO // 48 HOURS

With houses that defy the rules of gravity, ocean views, a beautiful bay, colorful diverse neighborhoods, an infamous former prison, and the golden gate bridge- San Francisco is a destination everyone falls in love with. I didn’t have any plans for my birthday weekend, so my husband, Daniel and I headed to the airport to see which flights were available to have an adventure-filled weekend. It was going to be a rainy weekend for most of the US so when we saw that San Francisco was going to be sunny and foggy we hopped on the plane! Whether you love the beach or the hills, shopping or hiking, museums or murals, street food or fancy restaurants, San Francisco has it all.

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What we saw (did):

Fort Point: Fort Point is a military fort that was designed to protect San Francisco from a Civil War sea attack that never ended up taking place. It’s a national historic site, a great place to walk around, and an even better place for amazing views of the golden gate bridge!

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Painted Ladies: We went to Alamo Square Park to take in the sight of the famous painted ladies. At the top of one hill was a coffee truck, so we sipped our cappuccinos while looking out on the amazing views of the city. Make sure to walk around the neighborhood because they have other homes that are equally as beautiful.

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Chinatown: San Francisco isn’t the only city in the US to house a bustling Chinatown, but it is the home to the largest Chinatown outside of Asia. Allow yourself a few hours to enjoy dim sum, go tea tasting, and wander through the shops and streets. Grant Street is the main road through Chinatown and it gets a bit touristy; Chinatown’s alleys are where the neighborhood really comes alive and show its identity. Make sure to check out Golden Gate Fortune Cookies to watch fortune cookies meticulously folded by hand and be sure to sample some warm cookies! You can even write your own fortunes for an additional cost.

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Cable car: Hop on one of the three cable car routes in the city for a fun, classic view of San Francisco’s hilly streets. As the only manually operated cable car system in the world, they are a unique cultural experience. We took the Powell line to Chinatown, and each ride costs $7 each way. If you’re lucky enough to be crossing paths with another cable car, high fives are expected.

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What stayed:

Hotel G: For an affordable stay in downtown San Francisco, check out Hotel G (located one block from Union Square.) This boutique hotel promises chic decor, comfortable beds, and a welcoming staff. They also have the best blackout curtains against the sunlight, and as someone who is constantly suffering from jetlag this was a bonus!

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What we ate & drank:

Mr. Holmes Bakehouse: I’m sure you’ve seen this place pictured on social media at some point. It’s a small space only meant to take pastries to go. I took the matcha croissant on the plane the next morning, and it was one of the best croissants outside of Paris I’ve ever had (and it was a day old!)

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Boba Guys: This is boba tea on a whole different level. Boba Guys do not use powders. They only use real tea leaves and have partnered with a local dairy farm to provide customers with the best milk. If you’re lactose intolerant, they also offer almond or oat milk. We tried the black lavender milk tea, and it was one of the best and unique boba teas I’ve ever had.

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Burma Superstar: You may have to endure a long wait, but trust me it is well worth it! The food is delicious, unique, and comes out quickly. The most popular menu item is a must — the fermented tea leaf salad. I’ve never had anything like it before. It’s crunchy, nutty, and fresh. In addition, I’ve never had Burmese food before, and it was so much fun exploring a new cuisine.

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Plow: While a silhouette of a pig hangs outside the restaurant, it is clear that eggs are the star. I thought the best way to sample Plow’s menu was to order its namesake dish. “The Plow” comes with two eggs, your choice of meat, two small lemon ricotta pancakes, and their famous crunchy rosemary potatoes. If I haven’t sold you, then the décor surely will. They even provided blankets for those who ate outside.

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Homeskillet: One thing I noticed while exploring the streets of downtown San Francisco was the number of diners. So of course we had to try one. Homeskillet offers breakfast all day and traditional omelets, breakfast sandwiches, and burgers. It is the perfect spot if you’re looking for some classic American comfort food.

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Hang ah dim sum and tea house: If you are a dim sum lover like I am, then this place cannot be missed! We ordered six different types of dim sum, and they were all different and amazing. The shrimp dumplings, sticky rice and chicken, and soup dumplings were our favorites. If you are unsure of what to order, the staff will guide you in the right direction. We loved this place so much that we went twice over our four-day trip.

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Layover Tips:

  • Although traffic can be frustrating, car transportation is the most practical. (We used uber).
  • The hills are no joke, so make sure to bring comfortable footwear.
  • If you are interested in going to Alcatraz make sure to order tickets in advance. Since our trip was so last minute, tickets were sold out for the entire weekend.
  • Take the BART into the city from the airport. You will save yourself both time and money.
  • Choose a centrally located hotel
  • Check for fog! We woke up early to see the sunrise over the golden gate bridge, and because of the fog we couldn’t see two feet in front of us (let alone the bridge.)
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LJUBLJANA // 48 HOURS

Before we go any further let’s talk about the pronunciation of Ljubljana (loob lee ah nuh). It took me awhile to learn the pronunciation, but now that I have it down, you can’t deny it’s a fun word to say! The Ljubljanica river flows through the city and is the heart of Ljubljana’s social life. The river is lined with busy outdoor cafés, picturesque architecture, and famous bridges. It’s the perfect place for a scenic stroll or a cup of coffee. Ljubljana is a cute and quaint hidden gem of a city. It’s not surprising that more and more people have become enchanted by the dragon city!

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What we saw (did):

Ljubljana Castle: This is the main attraction in the city and it is worth a visit. You can either take the funicular or walk up the hill through the park. There are many exhibits inside explaining Slovenia’s complicated history and independence. From the top of the 15th century castle there are spectacular views of the city with the Julian Alps in the distance.

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Lake Bled: Plan a morning to walk around the entire lake and enjoy the breathtaking views of the little island in the middle of the lake. It’s only a 45-minute car ride away from Ljubljana.  We loved seeing the cute villas around the lake, exploring the trails off the main path, and enjoying nature. While walking along the lake you can also walk up to Josip Tito’s Slovenian residence (the leader of former Yugoslavia). If you want to reach the island in the middle of the lake you can take a ride on a traditional wooden Pletna boat and relax in the atmosphere. If you are feeling up for a hike you can trek up hill to Bled Castle. You can choose to walk and wonder around the castle or grab a cup of coffee in the castle courtyard and soak up the views.

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Central Market: Vendors travel from all over Europe travel to the city center and set up stalls in this open-air market to feature their best products. If you’re a flower lover you will not be disappointed. Stalls and stalls of fresh blooms in every color imaginable and the price was unbelievably inexpensive. I couldn’t stop eating the Slovenian mountain cheeses and Italian salami!

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Gud Shop: I’m a sucker for cute shops with selections local design brands. It’s the best and most authentic way for me to purchase souvenirs.

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What we ate:

Crno Zrno: coffee: There are many places to get a good cup of coffee in Ljubljana, but what makes this place special is the passion the owner, Alex, has for his coffee shop. Alex specializes in Colombian coffee, that’s where he is from, and loves to educate his patrons. Even if you’re not a coffee person it’s worth a stop to see the beautiful tiles and décor.

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 Julija: I read about this restaurant in countless travel guides and books so I had to try it. I tried the daily Slovenian handmade pasta special with mushrooms and it was the best meal I ate in Ljubljana. If you’re looking for local classics this is the place to go.

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 Cokoladnica Cukrcek: Who doesn’t like handmade chocolates? There were so many beautiful reasonably priced chocolates to choose from and the staff offered patience and guidance when picking chocolates. My only regret is that I didn’t purchase more! Also, be sure to try the warm roasted candied almonds- they were heavenly!

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 Robba: One of the trendier spots in the city the interiors and cocktails are amazing. A great place to enjoy a few beverages and snacks outside.

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 Vander:  While known for being one of the best-looking hotels in Ljubljana, they are also known for their cuisine. If you are a foodie than this is a must while in Ljubljana. The ingredients are all local, prepared carefully, with patience and lots of commitment. The location is perfectly situated on the river so you can walk off the delicious food after your meal.

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 Vigo: This is ice cream on a whole new level! Not only do they have a variety and mixture of flavors but at the end you get to choose between white or dark chocolate drizzle on top! And yes, the line is well worth the wait for this creamy goodness.

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 Layover Tips:

  • GoOpti is a Slovenian transportation company that offers inexpensive van rides throughout Europe. Consider this travel option as it was much easier than renting a car
  • Discovering Ljubljana is all about walking, since everything is close and easily accessed by foot
  • You can easily take in all the city offers in 24 hours without experiencing FOMO (fear of missing out)
  • Ljubljana is the greenest city in Europe (they’ve even won awards). So, try to be environmentally conscious and respectful while visiting
  • Shop till you drop! Ljubljana has some of the best boutique shopping- pumpkin oil, schnapps, and paper goods are some local specialties

 

 

ZAGREB // 24 HOURS

Even though it is the capital of Croatia, Zagreb is often overlooked as a destination. However, it is starting to increase in popularity. Zagreb is home to a variety of restaurants, cafes, architecture, bakeries, and museums. There is always something happening in the largest city in Croatia. It is an easily walkable city and has a rich culture and history. Zagreb is a great place to fly into, stay for a couple days, and then can easily access your next destination.

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What we saw (did):

St. Marks: One of Zagreb’s most recognized buildings. The colorful tiled roof nobly displays the emblem of Zagreb on the right and Croatian medieval coat on the left. 

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Croatian History Museum: One thing I was unaware of was the magnitude of the Croatian War of Independence. This museum while small and difficult to locate was an incredible learning experience. Croatia wanted independence and fought to defend their lands for five taxing years with minimal resources. To better understand and appreciate Croatia, it is important to learn about the past.

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Explore the city: Most of our time in Zagreb was spent walking around finding little treasures and occasionally popping into a café for a coffee. I also highly recommend taking a stroll through one of Zagreb’s famous and beautifully curated parks. Walk for more than a few minutes and you will see Licitar hearts (intricately decorated red and white hearts). These hearts date back to the 16th century and were the preferred way of showing someone that you loved them (instead of roses). They make great souvenirs and I plan on using mine as a Christmas ornament.

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Zagreb Cathedral: This gothic style cathedral is the tallest building in Croatia, and you can easily see its spires poking into the Zagreb sky from most of the places around the city.

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Market: There are so many markets in Zagreb; the fresh produce was delicious and inexpensive. If you’re anything like me and love flowers make sure to check out flower square (Cvjetni Trg). This local hotspot is filled with colorful flower stalls and charming cafes. Also, make sure to try some pumpkin seed products, lavender, and figs. These were the best figs I’ve ever had!

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What we ate:

Bistroteka: This was by far my favorite meal in Zagreb. Yes, I’m sucker for trendy décor but the food also speaks for itself. Like other local restaurants the menu changes daily. We found this out the hard way when I saw avocado toast on the menu for breakfast we went back the next morning and it was no longer a menu item. If it’s available be sure to try the zucchini fritter salad!

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Lari and Penati: This restaurant is perfect if you want a taste of local Croatian cuisine. The menu changes daily to incorporate fresh ingredients (likely purchased from the local market).  This restaurant is small, charming, unorthodox, lively and creative- both in interior and in cuisine. It’s a modern little restaurant offering simple yet delicious gourmet choices each day.

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Amelie: If you have a sweet tooth and need something sweet after dinner you absolutely must make a stop at Amelie. I highly suggest trying the house cake “Torta Amélie.”  It is layered with custard, almonds, and berries. My mouth is watering while typing this!

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LT (layover tips):

  • Make sure to try cevapi (local grilled sausages with amazing bread)
  • Many people smoke inside of café’s so I took my coffee’s to-go
  • There are bakeries on every corner so pop in and try a few local favorites
  • Croatia is obsessed with Christmas and that’s because Zagreb is home to the largest Christmas market in the world
  • Zagreb is covered in graffiti so be sure to explore the city to find some cool street art
  • 24 - 48 seems to be the perfect amount of time to explore Zagreb

 

DUBROVNIK // 48 HOURS

I didn’t really know what to expect from Dubrovnik, but the second our plane circled the beautiful Dalmatian coast it was clear why Game of Thrones had picked Dubrovnik as King’s Landing. It’s a fairytale castle setting with walls dated to the 7th century! There are so many hidden charming corners in Dubrovnik waiting to be explored. Are you a fan of seafood? An architecture lover? Or a Game of Thrones enthusiast? Then you’ve come to the right place!

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What we saw (did):

City Walls: If you only have an hour in Dubrovnik this is the one activity you should do. Yes, it’s expensive but the views are worth it. It’s a great first activity to do in Dubrovnik to understand the city layout and admire the Adriatic. It’s best to enjoy the walls in the evening or in the morning because the walls are crowded and hot during the afternoon. We went in the evening as we were a little too jetlagged in the morning. Hindsight, I would go to the walls exactly when they open at 8am to beat the tourist rush.

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Lokrum Island: Old Town Dubrovnik can get very crowded during the day. One great way to escape and enjoy nature is a quick hop to the island of Lokrum. It’s only a 15-minute boat ride away to a peaceful oasis. The only inhabitants of Lokrum island are peacocks, rabbits, and of course tourists. Like Dubrovnik, Game of Thrones was also filmed on the island, and if you’re a fan like me you can snap a picture on the iron throne. After taking in the GoT sights, we took a swim in an idyllic little salt filled lake linked to the open sea. It was so relaxing to lay out and enjoy the sunshine.

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We had one rainy day while in Dubrovnik so we decided to take a day trip to Kotor. While a trip to Montenegro can last well over a week we got a small taste in the city of Kotor. This attractive little town is situated in Europe’s only fjord and has wonderful scenery, as well as being a UNESCO World Heritage site. The little lanes are so charming although can be crowded when cruise ships are in the harbor. This city (like me) is cat crazy! Cats roam the cobbled stone streets, the shops are filled with cat souvenirs, and there’s even a cat museum! The main attraction in Kotor is to walk the defensive walls, built between the 9th and 18th centuries, to the well-preserved hill top citadel. Once at the top you’ll be rewarded with beautiful views of the old city, mountains, and the gorgeous bay. Surprisingly, the hike is free and took us less than an hour, and the views were more than impressive. We only had one meal in Kotor, which was at the hotel Monte Cristo, and it was the most delicious and relaxing meal of our entire vacation. We ate on a beautiful covered rooftop surrounded by plants and ivy. One thing to be aware of if you’re driving to Montenegro from Croatia (or vice versa) is the long line of cars at each country’s border. We were lucky to only wait 45 minutes on a rainy day, but waits can be up to three hours.

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Explore the city: This is going to sound cheesy but just walking around the Old Town and taking in the Game of Throne vibes is really something. While walking the limestone streets, we also learned about Dubrovnik’s history. There were photos of Dubrovnik in the 90s posted on buildings when the city was destroyed during the war. These before and after photos are shocking to say the least.

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Sponza Palace, Luza Square, Cathedral of Assumption: These central spots are must sees for architecture lovers, history buffs, and GoT enthusiasts. These sights are in the Old Town, and you can grab an ice cream or a coffee and see these sights in an hour. Also, make sure to venture out to the cute hidden streets where it’s much quieter and quaint.

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Sveti Jakov: It’s nearly impossible to go to Dubrovnik without going to a beach. You’ll soon understand why Dubrovnik is called the pearl of the Adriatic. The Croatian definition of a beach is much different than an American’s definition. Croatians define a beach by any place near the water (note: sand not included.) Locals lay on rocks anywhere to soak up some sun. At Sveti Jakov, you can rent chairs for $10 a day so you don’t have to uncomfortably lay on rocks. Make sure to bring water proof shoes, otherwise the walk on the rocks to the water can be tough. 

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What we ate:

D’vino Wine bar: This is a favorite among locals and tourists because when you’re there you really feel like a regular. They have a ginormous selection of wine so if you’re looking for something specific this would be the place to find it! D’vino Wine Bar is a great stop to try some Croatian wine and snack on some charcuterie.

Bûza Beach Bar: This place literally means “hole in the wall.” You will have to duck through the tall city walls to find a stunning view of the sea. A perfect place to visit in the evening and watch the sunset while perched on a rock. If you’re brave enough, you can dive off the cliffs into the sparkling blue water.

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Above5: Only open for breakfast and dinner (we made the mistake by trying to go here for lunch,) Above5 is a small rooftop restaurant in Old Town. The food is a little pricier, but the quality of the food and views were totally worth it! Make sure to have a reservation for dinner or be the first ones to show up for breakfast like us. We had the entire terrace to ourselves for about an hour to take in the morning views.

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LT (layover tips):

•    Restaurants can be expensive

•    If you order seafood and it comes out instantly, it’s most likely not made to order

•    The early bird gets the worm in Dubrovnik. This doesn’t mean you should wake up ridiculously early, but if you want to capture some photos without 50 tourists then you’ll want to be in the city by 7:30am.

•    If you are a lover of bud light, Karlovačko is the beer for you. If you’re into craft beer, it may not be for you.

•    The streets of Old Town are limestone, so when wet they can be very slippery

AMSTERDAM //

Charming and quaint are the first two words that come to mind when I think of Amsterdam. It isn’t very often that I get to travel to a new city on a layover. I was most surprised to learn that Amsterdam was so small. Because of its size bikers are everywhere. In fact, biking is a way of life in Amsterdam. Bikers mean serious business and have zero tolerance for tourists who stand in the bike lane. I was almost run over a few times. Amsterdam has a very laid back vibe (and no it’s not because of the weed) locals know how to relax and enjoy life.  Diverse, friendly, and trendy Amsterdam is best described in photographs.

My second trip to Amsterdam was this past fall (2019) with my husband Daniel. I added new places we visited in Amsterdam to this city guide. If you see “we” and “I” used interchangeably in this post, it’s because of the two different visits. We decided to go to Amsterdam to visit friends from Chicago who are living in Amsterdam as expats. We had incredible weather and spent most of our time gazing at the architecture and fall foliage.

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What I saw (did): 

Keukenhof: About an hour outside of the city Keurkenhof is one of the largest flower gardens in the world. There are over 7 million bulbs planted each year and a total of 800 varieties of tulips. It is massive and spans 79 acres, it’s almost impossible to see everything! Keurkenhof features a winding path amongst a variety of different gardens and garden styles. If you are expecting to be amongst tulip fields you won’t find that at Keukenhof (in fact many of the surrounding tulip fields are privately owned). The best time of year to see the tulips depends on how harsh the winter was. I was on a layover and just so happened to be in Amsterdam at the perfect time of year for 2017 (the last two weeks of April and the first week of May).

Wildernis: Wow this shop is the cutest! It feels like stepping into a tropical oasis after being in cloudy Amsterdam all day. If you need an excuse to stay longer, they also serve coffee so you can stay longer and enjoy the plants!

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RijksMuseum: If you only have time for one museum in Amsterdam I suggest the Rijksmuseum. A pricier entrance fee (17.50 admission). The national museum showcases historical classic Dutch works of art. It was awe-inspiring to see the paintings by Rembrandt, Rubens, Vermeer as I had studied their works in college.

Moco Museum: Located on the Museumplein inside a historic townhouse, this modern and contemporary art museum was one of the highlights of our fall Amsterdam trip. The museum featured one artist per floor of the notable home. The featured exhibit, Banksy, was the main reason for our visit.

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Exploring the canals: There’s no better way to see the city than getting lost in a maze of canals. The canals are iconic and there’s a photo opportunity around every corner. There are three main canals in Amsterdam and Keizersgracht, Prinsengracht, and Herengracht which are all beautiful and best seen by boat.

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What I ate:

De Carrousel: This restaurant is the bomb! I ate so much food so such a small price. I ordered a traditional savory dutch pancake (pannenkoek) and the always delicious poffertjes (tiny pancakes covered in powdered sugar). It’s sometimes awkward going to restaurants and asking for a table for one, but this atmosphere made me feel comfortable and totally cool being solo.

Pluk: This Instagram-worthy café is a destination in itself. Pluk’s menu varies but always includes breakfast bowls, and pastries. They also sell home goods and curated items that make great gifts. Located in Amsterdam’s quaint 9 streets this was a perfect healthy meal to get our first day in Amsterdam started.

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Foodhallen: This food hall offers a variety of stands if you can’t decide what to eat this is a great place to go. Everything from Dim Sum to traditional Dutch meatballs (bitterballen) can be found here. Make sure you bring cash as many of the stands do not take cards.

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Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx: There’s a sign in front of this place that says “Best Frites in Holland” so naturally I had to try it. This was my first layover back as a flight attendant since I got married so naturally I was ready to go carb crazy! The french fries were amazing but the combination of sauces available were even better! Lemon mayo, peanut sauce, spicy curry are just a few of the sauce options.

Little Collins: A newer addition to the De Pijp neighborhood, the share-friendly dinner offering was exceptional. My favorites were the ginger glazed pork belly, Kimchi slaw with broccoli, and Halloumi with roasted beets and fennel.

Van Wonderen Stroopwafels: I’ve never had a freshly made stroopwafel before this visit and it was a game changer. Imagine an ice cream cone and a cookie had a baby…and then covered it in chocolate and stuffed it with hot caramel. I swear I ate mine in about three bites! Stoopwafels on the airplane will never be the same again.

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WHAT WE DRANK:

Bar Botanique: Amsterdam East’s new hip hotspot. The tropical café is open all day for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and drinks. We went for a quick cocktail and enjoyed the beautiful lush ambiance and modern décor.

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Koffie Aademie: This café imports beans from all of your favorite coffee countries and roasts them right on site. You might have to wait a few minutes longer than usual from your cup, as the baristas here craft every single drink with care. Everything you see inside this cozy, hop spot is for sale—from sandwiches to carrot cake to the handmade furniture from reclaimed wood.

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Toki: After walking quite a few miles in the chilly Amsterdam weather, Toki was the effortlessly cool hangout we needed in the afternoon. The beautiful terrazzo tables and handmade coffee mugs compliment the shop’s calm, relaxed energy. There were many drip coffee options and I sipped an oat milk latte.

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4850: I went on a quest to find the best oat milk latté and I found it at 4850. We had the most delicious avocado toast with poached eggs and drip coffees. We loved it so much we went twice. If you’re a coffee snob like us, you cannot miss some of the best coffee in the city.

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LT (layover tips):

  • Yes, Amsterdam has legal weed and prostitution…so you’ll probably have to deal with annoying drunk and/or high people at some point.

  • Don’t stand in the bike lane. Bikers will run you over!

  • Tall people are everywhere, the Dutch people are some of the most beautiful and tallest in the world.

  • Shops close very early on weekdays (like 5 or 6pm)

  • If you’re interested in visiting the Anne Frank Huis make sure you book tickets online far in advance. I went online a month before our trip and all of the tickets were sold out.

  • Make sure you try Dutch cheeses!

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BARCELONA // 48 HOURS

Barcelona is a city that offers a variety of cultural experiences. After relaxing in Marrakech, we were ready to hit the ground running on the second stop of our honeymoon. I was looking forward to the experiencing the vibrant food scene (aka me stuffing my face with tapas). Barcelona is a dynamic city, and it’s almost impossible to run out of things to do while visiting. Well known for its beautiful beaches, medieval streets and iconic architecture, Barcelona has so much to offer. Oh, and did I mention the sangria?


Where we stayed:  

Praktik Garden:

Centrally located close to the metro, the hotel is a quick walk to several famous sights in Barcelona such as Casa Batlló. The interior decor is stylishly quirky and features plants as well as a wall of books in the lobby. My favorite feature of the hotel is a large patio covered in plants. A great place for a coffee and a pastry in the morning or a glass of wine at night. You’ll feel worlds away from the hustle and bustle just a few blocks away. 


What we ate:

Tapas 24: Our favorite restaurant in Barcelona! We stumbled across this restaurant having only been in Barcelona for an hour. The staff is very friendly and helpful when navigating the menu. The walls are painted with the menu..literally, cute cartoon paintings of the food cover the gold walls. You can’t go wrong with anything on the menu but definitely order the tomato bread and la bomba de barceloneta.

Can Solé: After reading a few articles we knew we needed to go to Barceloneta to taste the best paella the city had to offer. This waiters at this restaurant took pride in the century old traditions that they uphold to this day. The special of the day was lobster paella which was a little pricier but well worth the paella experience!

Boquéria Market: This large public market is a sensory experience packed with vendors and shoppers. There are many restaurants located inside the market that all have bar seating. You can either wait patiently for seats to open at a bar or you can purchase food items for a picnic. Make sure you go to a juice stand and try a juice you can’t get at home (I had coconut kiwi) for only 1 euro!

Praktik Bakery: This is a great option for breakfast on the go or if you prefer just a pastry and a coffee for breakfast. It’s almost always a good sign to see a line out the door and a shop filled with locals purchasing bread.  As a pastry aficionado, I can tell you that the quality of the bread here is fantastic!

Alsur Café: A great place if you are looking for a heartier typical brunch style meal. Decorated with bright collages and interesting light fixtures, Alsur café was buzzing with university students. This wasn’t an authentic Spanish experience but the food was delicious and substantial! 


What we saw (did): 

Park Güell: We were lucky we had such a beautiful day while at Park Güell you’ll be outside for two hours exploring the gardens. We booked this one in advance so it was going to be the luck of the draw to figure out what kind of weather we were going to have. Between the whimsical architecture and blooming wisteria and flowers Park Güell felt magical. If you want to capture a great picture from the mosaic bench I suggest reserving a time earlier in the day. 

Casa Batlló: As you already know Antoni Gaudí is responsible for creating the most famous and picturesque sights in Barcelona. Only a few blocks away from our hotel this house was like entering a new world. The vibrant exterior displays colorful broken mosaic and the interior features more ceramic gradually changing color from white to cobalt blue.

Sagrada Familia: Before entering the church, I was thinking to myself “how has it taken so long to finish this church?” Well after spending three hours exploring Sagrada Familia I now understand why it’s not yet completed. It’s massive! Gaudí was a devout Catholic and was inspired by nature when creating Sagrada Familia (the columns are tree trunks). The architectural design is unique in that the light that shines through the mosaic stained glass colors the white stone interior. This is a must - make sure to book your tickets online (choose the Nativity tower for a great view of the Mediterranean). Also make sure you cross the street to get a better vantage point for your photos!

Walk the Gothic Quarter (El barrio gotic): Wandering around the center of old city Barcelona we admired architecture dating back to Medieval times. Don’t miss out on a visit to the 14th century Barcelona cathedral. We also checked out the antique flea market set up on the outside of the cathedral steps.

Montserrat day trip: Montserrat is rich with history. The key attraction is a 10th century monastery that still functions today. A quick drive or train ride from Barcelona, Montserrat feels like a completely different world from the busy streets of Barcelona city life. We enjoyed the views from cable car up to the top of the mountain. If you’re outdoorsy there are several hiking trails once at the top varying in level of difficulty and length.

Wine Tasting: We booked a wine tour with castlexperience and it was worth maximizing our time. They offer many different types and variations of tours. We chose one starting later in the day (who wants to get up at the butt crack of dawn on vacation) that included a tour of Montserrat and a winery (with a wine and tapas tasting). We maximized our time by being shuttled around on a bus opposed to stressing out over if we were on the right train.


 Layover Tips:

  • Delicious & cheap Spanish beer: Mahou
  • Eat seafood for lunch because it’s cheaper during the day than it is at night.
  • SNACK! Waiting until 10pm for dinner was rough so we had some snacks in our hotel room before dinner.
  • Pick pockets are REAL! Be aware on the metro because those sneaky weasels are out there!
  • Markets are a great way to have an inexpensive meal and experience local culture.
  • Make sure you try pan con tomate or (pan coca) as an appetizer. It's tomato and garlic on local Catalonian bread. YUM!